Can you guys give this diagram a look over and see if it looks ok?
Does the rad breather need to connect to anything?
Got to get my hoses ordered.

Thanks.
Steve.

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think you have the rad out and in the wrong way round, normally the water flows out through the water pump, through the thermostat or to the heater and then to the top inlet of the radiator. Then the cooled water returns via the bottom hose.

you can see it here on the falcons pinto, that the top hose is coming from the pump and thermostat (just above the fan). The heater hose is normally returned to the inlet manifold (disconnected in this pic) and then flows through the head






[Edited on 3/4/09 by Mr Whippy]

Don't know about the K series - but I've never seen the cam cover breather connected into a cooling system before!!

JC

Rad hoses are the right way for a k series. Rad breather should go to T on header pipe breater.

The hose you have as "Cyl Head Breather" is NOT a water hose, it's a crank case breather! DO NOT conect to coolant!

adrian

A lot of the k series problems on the freelander are believed to be down to where the thermostat is placed. Not sure where you've got it, but if you can move it to by the engine hot water outlet its better.

I have a sketch of mine at home, I will check it against yours when I get there in about an hour or so.
But as said one of yours is the breather.

Steve.

also most people plug up the rad breather - but if you can pipe it up, you've got rid of the chance of an air lock in the rad. Its just difficult finding space in the nose cone for most sevens.

amended
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You've missed (and so did I) the REAL cyl' head bleed outlet. Its on the inlet manifold, near the red dot, just next to the dip stick in you're picture.

Also the 2 medium ones, marked "engine out" and "eng in", are normally the pipes to the heater and the header is T'd into the one you have it connected to.

All from memory. The only one I'd take as gospel on this would be BritishTrident.

adrian

You have replaced the heater with the header tank so it should work but probably not good for the tank! I think the simplest way is just to have a loop from the heater outlet at the top of the engine going back to the back of the pump. It is this bit of the circuit that operates the thermostat so it is important. The header tank can then just be Teed into a coolant line. Probably the best solution is to fit a remote thermostat in the top hose from the engine and discard the original thermostat. I think the line you show from the breather should go to the small bleed connection on the inlet manifold. That spigot has a tiny ball non return valve inside which apparently is best knocked out to improve bleeding.

This is how mine is done. We used to put a 8mm restrictor in the heater circuit to mimic the heater matrix on the test beds.
Steve

Main points with the K series are
(1) It needs continous bleed from the cylinder head to avoid airlocks this can either be T'ed into the small bore hose linking the header tank and the top or if a suitable Rover 45 style header is used flow through the header tank..

(2) A bleed screw is require in the pipework leading to the water pump inlet. to allow bleed durring filling --- nb bleed point capped by a screw no continuous bleed is required.

(3) The by-pass flow must not be restricted in any way ---- on the final production Rover the revised PRT thermostat plumbing used a very large bore allowed allowed a much higher volume flow rate on the by-pass circuit . Restrictting the by-pass will lead to local hotspots forming if the engines is gunned durring the warm up phase ---- this causes "head Shuffle" and will result in the eventual failure of the sealant tracks between the oil ways and the water ways in the head gasket.


(4) I would strongly advise ditching the existing thermostat and converting to the external PRT thermostat, This uses a standard Landrover part which can be found for about 13 pounds or so but extensive modiffications are required to the plumbing layout. A google on the MGF/MGTF and Elise forums will reveal the details

(5) If the existing thermostat is retained them couple of small holes in the thermostat valve plate will help avoid local overheating problems durring the warm up phase and will aid bleeding..


[Edited on 3/4/09 by britishtrident]

PRT thermosta info

http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/


Photo showing bigger bypass bore
Rescued attachment stats.jpg

Note the question mark next to the restrictor.
Are you happy with the rest of it? I am.

Steve

Thanks for the info guys. I was especially hoping that Steve and Britishtrident might be able to help. I will work through the suggested solutions in the morning and order my hoses asap.
It's bloody complicated this car building lark!

Steve.

this is the new layout following suggestions. I will look at the remote thermostat as a modification after sva. Currently I just want to get the car going asap.
Hopefully this layout will work as per steve's plan but without the restrictor as britishtrident suggested.

What do people do with the breather on the rad?

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