hi all, this is my thread which i will be updating from a 1.6 pinto to a 2.0 duratec, as i am now 18. and can afford it.lol

right then well a few days ago i found out that my duratec i brough had taken a secondary buttery fly and steel rod in to one of it pistons.

see here for more info

so now today, i got home at 6.00 and my dad was home and i said i all alls ways wanted to rebuild an engine, and it is happening now.lol

so we got out to the gargre and started with this:


cleaner engine

so the rocker cover comes off:


roker cover off


cams

now, tiem to undo the crank pulley, that was a misson, me and dad could not budget, so we throught a lillte bit of heat and teh impact gun, and it eventruly shifted.lol


crank pulley

next was the timming chain cover to remove.


timing cover off

and now to lock the tensor back:


tensinor

a clever use of a pop rivet, taht was dad's idea.lol

and the chain is lose:

chain lose

next was to take the cams out:


cams out

and the camshafts on the bench:


cams on bench

and now to undo the torx head bolts which at t55, and i only have a set up to t 50, so a quick dart around one off my mates, and got a t55, adn off came the head.


head off

and i sore the damge, to the vaules and the piston.

the bore is fine, will just need a hone, but it needs a new piston, and the vaules could do to be taken out and relaped.


block

so after, that time to take the sump off, and get to the crank.


crank


crank

and i the conrod bolts are star drives on teh out side, and i do not have any off those, so i will have to get some, and take the piston out.

will keep this thread updated.

thanks

stuart

[Edited on 6/10/09 by Stuart_B]

well at least you know how your duratec is put together now, all the ins and outs, make sure you have a good look at the condition of the crank bearings and big end bearings for excessive wear etc.

keep us posted!

Cool,
Looks like you will be giving us a good reference guide as you go along. Keep up the good work

Cool stuff innit.

I remember taking apart a 1.8 Zetec that i skipped an could now do with!

Its the best way to learn.

Good Luck.

hi all, well my dad took the undun teh crank bolts, and got the con rod, and piston out today as i was at work, and he has got this week off.

and this is the damaged piston:


piston


piston

as you can see it is not good.

will update this thread through out the project

thanks

stuart

thats bad......do you need a replacement still?? or all sorted ok??

I going to strip mine down next week ready to take to scholar

Once I finally recieve my rods I will be stripping mine to fit the forged bits, so if you want a full set of nearly new rods and pistons let me know.

Might be another month or so though.

David

quote:

---

Originally posted by Stuart_B
and this is the damaged piston:

---

hi, i have got a second hand set coming, with low milage, as i might go down the supercharging route in a few years time.

the vaules, i have not manged to get ot yet as i have not got a double vaule spring compressor.

cheers

stuart

Its always gets interesting when you start to rebuild engines. Look forward to your posts.

Oh by the way I hope the rebuild goes better than your spelling

quote:

---

Originally posted by neilj37
Its always gets interesting when you start to rebuild engines. Look forward to your posts.

Oh by the way I hope the rebuild goes better than your spelling

---

right a bit off an updated,

yesterday and today i have been working on the duratec.

i took out the other 3 pistons, then de glazed the bores on all 4.

then i got the new pistons, and allinged the pistons rings, so the joins where in the right poistions, and then installed the 4 pistons and con rods in to the block, but i have not done the conrod bolts up tight as i have not recived my new ones yet.


4 pistons in

next on to taking the vaules out off the head.

so i got them all out, took the old vaule steam seals out as well as i am replacing them.


allthevaulesoutoffthehead

then i fitted the new vaule stem seals, and then finely lapped the vaules in, just to make sure there was no damage to the vaules when the engine decide to take a steel rod.

so once all the vaules where lapped, i put the vaules and springs back together, and the little collets are tricky but by the end off this head i was doing fine. putting a little bit of grease on the steam off the vaule was a great help, my dad told me about that.lol


vaules

then i just cleaned out the head, and made sure it was nice and clean, so i can get the head back on the block, and the camshafts in.

thanks

stuart

Better to fit the valve stem oil seals after lapping in the valves and cleaning all traces of grinding paste, your text makes it sound like you fitted them before lapping in the valves?

oh, sorry yes i laped the vaules in then cleaned the whole head, and fitted new vaule steam seals.


it was my first cylinder head, so bit jhard to take it all in.

stuart

hi all, last night i went out to the gargre to finish the engine.

first job was to fit the new conrod bolts in the duratec, a nice easy job to start with:

new conrod bolts in

now time to move on and get the head on, so get the rtv and head gasket ready, in the book it says you have 10mins from once you have started to do the head to finish it, so me and dad throught we will go for it.

headgasket in place:

new headgasket on

so then placed the head on and started to place all the bolts in by hand, then start tighting them in the correct sqeunce and correct pressure. once they where all done, it was time to fit the vaule buckets, so i fitted them, in the correct place from wher ethey where taken out off. after that it was time to place the camshafts in and the cam carries in and do them up in the right order and pressure, once they where done, we lined both camshafts up and palced the timing chain on, and made sure the no1 piston was at tdc with the tdc pin.


head done, camshafts in

now to fit all the timming chain tension, and realse the pin, and it took up all slack off the chain, now in the book it say's remove all the locking tools and do 2 complet revoultions off the engine by hand, we done that and nothing hit, and all the marks lined up, so that ment we got it right.

then we put the locking tools backing in, and then went on to the timing chain cover and replaced the front seal, and then rtv in the correct places on the block, and then bolted it up.


timing chain cover going on

now time to put the pulley on and the new bolt on, it was hard to come off so we new it was hard to go back on.

but lucky i have my dad and he is bigger than me so that helped alot.seeing he done it.lol

now a complet engine, again

engine done

engine done

engine done

thanks

stuart

quote:

---

Originally posted by Stuart_B
oh, sorry yes i laped the vaules in then cleaned the whole head, and fitted new vaule steam seals.

---

What's the port to the right of the inlet ports?

[img][/img]

Also, Flak Monkey mentioned that a Zetec clutch is required if mating a Duratec to a Type 9 Box (thanks) - is the general 2.0 Zetec clutch suitable for around the 200bhp mark?

The other port is the egr port. Which goes to the egr valve on the back of the head. Its an M20x1.5 IIRC and ideally needs to be plugged.

If you are worried about the clutch slipping with 200bhp the one to fit is an uprated one for an RS Turbo (AP CP3560-2) which is good for 350bhp. But again you'll need a friction plate with the correct splines. Speaking to AP they said use a 215mm plate as they dont actually make any 220mm plates anyway. So an uprated plate for the pinto, coupled with the CP3560-2 plate on a fiesta st flywheel should do the trick

David

hi, as david mention it is the erg port there is one on the exhaust side as well but i am not sure what to do about that one, but thanks david for the thread taht saves me some time.

cheers

stuart

Thanks (again!) chaps.

I was thinking it was the EGR port, but it threw me as the one on my engine doesn't have the natty red bit on it! Think I need to stop looking at other Duratecs as the slight differences just confuzzle me!

hi all, bit of an update, i have made my own oil take off plate so i do not have to spend lots off money on a raceline part or simlar, and got a remote filter head, so just will get the hose once it is in.

and have got a type 9 gearbox and durtec bellhousing of ebay for a good price, and a fiesta st flywheel off ebay as well.

i have no pictures at the moment but will get some soon.

thanks

stuart

here are some pictures of the engine:


engine

here is the duratec with the bellhousing and oil adaptor, and the inlet flange and engine mount plates.

here is teh gearbox it got with the bellhousing,
gearbox

oil take of plate:

oil take off plate

from that i will go with oil hose to my remote filter head mount some where i can easy change the filter.

cheers

stuart

Looking good Stuart, keep up the good work

hi all, bit of work on it,

i respaced my gsxr 750 throttle boddies, these are the standard spacing:

gsxr 750

and this is after i respaced the throttle boddies:


gsxr 750 throttle boddies

gsxr 750 throttle boddies 2

gsxr 750 throttle boddies 3

i think it turend out all right as it was teh first try at resacing the throttle boddies, as on the pinto i just made a manifold to suit.

thanks

stuart

its looking great. i do like the take off plate, came out really well

Nice build

How does the combustion chamber looks like? I had the same butterfly problem and the head had severe markings.

[Edited on 28/12/09 by Micael]

hi, the head was not to bad, a couple of little dinks, which will not make to much differance, it was just the piston which was badly damaged, a thin scartch down the bore which came out with a light hone.

and the vaules where untouched, so i did not need to replace them.

so not to bad, but it was a shock as i did not know about the promblem.

but now it has new piston's and rods now.


i think my piston was a bit worse than yours:
piston

so what are you going to do with yours, as you have 2?

cheers

stuart
cheers

My combustion chamber looked almost the same as the piston. So don't know if it cam be repaired.

I have two engines. One with bearing failures(1 and 2 cyl) and one engine with a piston/butterfly failure.

The plan is to use the block and head from the engine with bearing failures. With the crank and 3 pistons/conrods from the "bytterfly engine" and one piston/conrod from the "bearing" engine.

All with new bearings, rings and ARP-bolts @ the big end.

My plan is to use Gixxer TB with MS, as i did on my Zetec. However i have started to look into using an Eaton M-62 instead.

wow that is a clean engine, how did you do that?

as well will be using new rings or not?

with the megasquirt have you found a base map yet?

cheers

stuart

It's amazing what some paint can do

To get an engine start with MS is not that hard. There are a lot of guides out there to get it run.

With an wideband O2 sensor and MegaLogViewer VE analyzer it is pretty easy to get a good map. However a couple of hours on a rolling road is a good investmet as well.

Do you plan to use MS?

nice, yes i plan to use MS, i have it sitting in front of me now.

i am also got to buy the wideband sensor still.

stuart

I have used Innovate LC-1 wideband sensor. But i think the "JAW" will work aswell.

are there any more updates to this??

Stuart had to abandon it as he couldnt get insurance to cover him on a 2 litre

thats a big shame as this was a good looking thread. Out of interest what age is he? We are thinking of a duratec engine swap and my son will be 23/24 when it is finished

18 IIRC

I got insurance on the 2 litre pinto when I was 23. So you should be ok

cheers david, have not cheecked this thread for a while.

if youa re intreasted in do it i have it for sale for £700 buys you every think listed here

stuart

the duratec is now sold, waiting to be picked up.

stuart