I have a EFI 2.9 from a h reg granada, standard setup as was in granada. The ecu shows no fault codes (its ok), the engine seems to be running lean
(gray/white plugs) the mixture screw on the air flow meter seem to do nothing. I have had a Co meter on the engine I get no reading( no co meter is
working tested on road car) anyone seen this before. Help!!
I have thought about fitting a power boost valve ( higher fuel pressure) any ideas if this would help
regards
alistair
have you changed your air filter from std? This might affect flow characteristics....
how do you know there ar eno fault codes..... you have the proper test kit? My engine runs OK but the engine light come on - its either trying to
tell me something, or I wired it wrong! Thats my interest as to how you got the fault codes...........
ab
steve
[Edited on 11/5/04 by stephen_gusterson]
There are no air filters was not planning to use them, the fault codes were read using a 12v bulb and some wire.
the following link is very usfull regarding testing the ford eec iv (american I know but all the type 4 ecu are basicaly the same). www.therangerstation.com
quote:
Originally posted by Alistair Mc
There are no air filters was not planning to use them, the fault codes were read using a 12v bulb and some wire.
this looks interesting...........
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=91701
the air flow meters are connected using the original pipes, tryed covering inlets with rag, it had no effect on co.
did you connect the two wires in the diagnostic plug together, there are three wires two go together one goes to bulb, bulb to 12v, as in diagram
from website, early uk fords use two digit codes.
bulb flashes fast codes first, cant read with bulb. then the slow codes they are (eg two flashes followed by second pause then three flashes would be
code 23). if everything is ok you get code 11
Hi
I read online stuff about the codes, so im more clued up now.
I havnt done any tests to date, thats summat else to add to the list.
I know where the test plug is on the loom.... and I think its 3 pin. Im guessing that if I connect 2 pins together, then my dash light will flash the
codes.....
thx for the guidance!
ps did you use a restricive enought rag? Perhaps you could get an original ford air box from a scrappy and see if thats the prob.....?
do you have the hose connected from the fuel pressure regulator to the plegnum? I dunno if this makes things weak or rich, but the plegnum pressure is
needed to make sure the fuel to air intake pressure is approx constant 35 psi.....
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by Alistair Mc
the air flow meters are connected using the original pipes, tryed covering inlets with rag, it had no effect on co.
did you connect the two wires in the diagnostic plug together, there are three wires two go together one goes to bulb, bulb to 12v, as in diagram from website, early uk fords use two digit codes.
bulb flashes fast codes first, cant read with bulb. then the slow codes they are (eg two flashes followed by second pause then three flashes would be code 23). if everything is ok you get code 11
pipe is connected, may have a air leak in it though I will check tonight, thanks for the help
regars
alistair
This won't sound very technical but they all seem to run lean. Dunno about the lack of CO reading, you will get something no matter how lean it
is realistically. My XR4x4 always has very light coloured plugs but still gets through plenty of petrol (20 mpg on a good day!)
Does it pink under load i.e. wide open throttle at 1000 rpm in 5th gear? If not then all is fine, most of them will pink under these conditions too!
(mine does) think it was Ford trying to get a few more mpg out of them!!
Basically don't panic, unless there is severe pinking/detonation then there is nothing to worry about. (I have run Ford V6's in my road cars
for years, current one is my 5th with a 2.8 or 2.9 in it!)
Oh yes, just to add, I have never found the bypass screws on the airflow meters to do a lot either, and yes, you could raise the fuel pressure a bit
and try that if there is a problem. A cheaper way to do this is to (temporarily) plumb in a fuel pressure guage to the injection supply rail (you will
need to do this anyway to accurately set the FSE valve) and then just squash the standard regulator a tiny bit with sockets and a g-clamp and check
the new pressure! (the "squashing" adds pressure to the reg. spring in just the same way as the adjuster nut on the FSE valve)
thanks for the advice, dont know about driving (no SVA yet). I think I will just not worry about it until Im on the road.