Hi Guys,
Finally managed to get my engine out this morning and pull all the clutch bits to pieces.
We thought that the symptoms meant that the clutch plate was around the wrong way. Unfortunately it was round the correct way, so an easy fix is not happening.
Here are some pictures, can anyone see whats wrong, following on from this post:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=137788


Gearbox1


Clutch Flywheel


Clutch plate


Clutch cover1


Clutch cover 2

Really struggling now, think i might end up going to Newark after all if i don't know how to fix this

There's some dims here of a CT133 bearing worth checking yours



http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=107081&pid=893307

All well image didn't quite attach but follow the address and the pic is there



[Edited on 19/6/10 by big-vee-twin]

quote:

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Originally posted by big-vee-twin
There's some dims here of a CT133 bearing worth checking yours



[img]http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=107081&pid=893307[/img]

[Edited on 19/6/10 by big-vee-twin]

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There's a pic on here some where with the standard and CT133 side by side so you can see the difference - still looking

Kev

Yup just measured against that and it matches up. Mine is the ct133!

is the arm stopping the bearing travelling far enough down the input shaft??

quote:

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Originally posted by big-vee-twin
is the arm stopping the bearing travelling far enough down the input shaft??

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I've just lifted this off of www.zetecinside.com

The Silver Top flywheel should be used, as the later dual mass flywheel on the Black Top Zetec's isn't suitable due to their size and weight. The flywheel will need re-drilling to accept a Pinto clutch. Keep the Mondeo Zetec clutch cover. Use a sierra 1.8 CVH friction plate. Fit a ford spigot bearing, change the clutch release bearing to a capri part CT133 Quinton Hazel (available from most motor factors). A new spigot bearing costs approx £10 from Ford. For FWD applications, you should use an AP Racing 220mm clutch and clutch cover.

You can get away with using a standard Zetec FWD clutch for RWD applications but, as the fulcrum point for the clutch release arm is in a different place on FWD cars, you'll find that in a RWD vehicle the clutch pedal will only have half its normal travel.


Could be worth a read through

Done everything there...

Whats happening at the pivot end of the arm? Not clear on the pic, has it been altered /welded?

quote:

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Originally posted by IanBrace
Whats happening at the pivot end of the arm? Not clear on the pic, has it been altered /welded?

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Ok just got some more pics, When the pedal is up, This is how it sits:


Release Arm Open

When the pedal is fully down, the arm is bottoming out on the bellhousing at this point. Is this enough? Maybe i need more travel?


Release Arm Closed

Therefore maybe the arm is too bent. Some people have said, there are different arms, but this is the sierra one. And also if it had more travel, my clutch slave cylinder might not have enough travel

[Edited on 19/6/10 by eddie99]

check ur flywheel. I'm sure the 2.0 litre flywheel needs a diff release bearing due to it being thicker than the 1.8. (read it on here and some where else. On phone so can't search myself. What bell housing hard u got. Rs 2000 ally bell housings have diff pivot point so u need diff clutch arm.

Normal steel/iron bellhousing from the sierra, so no adaptions should be needed for that.


[Edited on 19/6/10 by eddie99]

Just reading Big_Vee_Twin's post. I think i've got the 1.8 blacktop flywheel, which came with the engine. Maybe i need the silvertop flywheel. Are the thicknesses different?

Edd just had a good look over my box and it looks identical to your in terms of arm bearing shaft etc, On the assumption that they are all this configuration its pointing towards your cover plate.

What is that taken from can you dim front to back and I'll check against mine off the rs turbo.

On the basis the 2.0 Zetec boys fit the Zetec 1.8 fly cos its lighter wouldn't think that is a problem

[Edited on 19/6/10 by big-vee-twin]

The clutch cover i got a part number of big_Wasa and went and bought the mondeo 220mm clutch cover or something along those lines!! Thats what we thought it was before

Any early Zetec cover I understand is ok but you may be better with a RWD cover like mine off an RS Turbo get the dims and we can compare.

Kev

Arm

The pivot end of the release arm does look as if its been attacked at some time,does it look like this when its out.

My clutch plate is 40mm deep and the fingers are indented from the front face 9mm.

But I notice you have curved fingers not flat.

Aren't they designed to accept a round face bearing as the hydraulic one.

My fingers are flat to accept a flat bearing face like the ct133 -dunno if that' makes any difference.

I keep looking at the picture of the pivot end, it just doesnt look right to me.

Bob - its just that there is lots of grease around it.
Kev - Im stuck, want me to measure my cover plate?

please read u have u2u
les g

Was this the picture you were looking for?

Cheers

Rich

Hi Edd I've done some measuring don't know if it will help but here goes.

Distance from face of fingers to bottom of Spiggot bearing 75mm.

Depth behind fingers to clutch plate 20mm

Pushing bearing forward down input shaft until it is leaving 75mm (ie contact point) aligns face of the bearing bearing with end of sleeve which input shaft passes through and leaves a further 15-16mm of travel to push the bearing into the clutch cover plate.

At the contact point the Sierra lever is about half way through its travel.

Yes that's the one

Looking at the photos that show the amount of travel on the release bearing reminded me of when I did my first Zetec to type 9 conversion on a Westfield.

I found that I couldn't engage gears properly as it felt that the clutch was dragging. I discovered that if I didn't give it full pedal travel then it worked fine so my solution was to fit a pedal stop to limit the clutch travel. You've got so much travel on that release bearing I can't believe that you need more.

Good luck
Jed

i had a similar prob with mine,same combo.
i pulled out the pivot that the release arm sits on and tapped the hole to 6mm,screwed a long 6mm bolt with lock nut in and adjusted the bolt head and therefore the pivot point till all was hunky dory....worth a try with the bellhousing off

quote:

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Originally posted by theconrodkid
i had a similar prob with mine,same combo.
i pulled out the pivot that the release arm sits on and tapped the hole to 6mm,screwed a long 6mm bolt with lock nut in and adjusted the bolt head and therefore the pivot point till all was hunky dory....worth a try with the bellhousing off

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Left Rear Wing

Right Rear Wing

Ok hopefully today has been the lucky day. Did above and created a bit more play as well as changing the clutch plate so the very same one but slightly thinner one i believe.
Got the engine back in the car in a bit of a rush and connected it all back up. Battery was dead but managed to jump start it. Could put it in first clutch down and pull clutch up and it would move forward. So think this is a good step forward
Think the clutch system might need a bit of tweaking with the hydraulic slave cylinder or maybe just more bleeding....
Very happy to have finally moved forward, and on track for the 9th of july at north weald Just got to finish bleeding clutch, connect up the rad and hoses, nosecone back on.
Then possibly the first drive on private grounds

Ok, don't know if it's relevant here but with a crossflow clutch if you have curved fingers on the cover, you need a flat release bearing and vice versa, flat and flat don't go....just a thought.