Hi Guys,

Just a quickie... i have a crossflow engine, should i be using a ballast or non-ballast coil or does it not matter either way?

Thanks,
Andy

It depends on which ignition system you're using!

If you are using the original distributor (points, capacitor, coil) then it's probably a ballast system (9v coil).

If you are using a Valencia distributor (no points or capacitor, just an electronic module screwed to the side - a common mod) then you'll have a non-ballasted system (12v coil).

it is the original distributor with the breaker points inside.
The coil i had already is a unipart GCL216 which i have looked up as being a non-balast coil, hence i had no resistor before it.

So should i actually be using a ballasted coil?

For points ignition the distributor type dosen't come into it but

Ballast coils require a ballast and should have the ballast by-pass connection wired up (for easier cold starting ballast is by-passed when the stater motor is being operated).

Standard 12v coil can be used without a ballast.


With electronic ignition the coil must be matched specific ignition system

quote:

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Originally posted by pekwah1
it is the original distributor with the breaker points inside.
The coil i had already is a unipart GCL216 which i have looked up as being a non-balast coil, hence i had no resistor before it.

So should i actually be using a ballasted coil?

---

with the points gap, if it is wrong, will i get any spark at all?
Am i right in thinking the car will probably still start but will just run like a pig?

Re-reading what I wrote - I didn't explain myself very well

If you're looking at an original engine, with an original distributor etc. then there's a fair chance it has currently got a ballasted ignition system as that was what was originally fitted. If anyone's changed stuff, or you started with a bare engine and you're making up your own system, then all bets are off!

To summarise:

If you've got a coil for a ballasted system then you'll need a ballast resistor. There is often special wiring around the ignition switch that bypasses the ballast resistor when the switch is in the "start" position so that the coil gets all of the volts when the starter is turning (at which time the battery may only be giving 9 or 10 volts).

If you've got a 12v coil then you don't need the ballast resistor, and there is no special ignition switch wiring.

Hope that makes more sense...

Oh - and if your points gap is wrong, then it may well make your engine run like a pig!

Now as i've somehow melted my ballast wire (long story involving me being an idiot) ........ what am i best using in its place & where to get from + how should i mount it?

Remember also Xflows and earlier Fords going back to the Model T have an oddball firing order, 1-2-4-3 anticlockwise dizzie rotation.
Ford/autolite/Fomoco distributors are easy to spot the contact points are like something out of Poundland.

The rest of the non-Ford world used 1-3-4-2 usually anticockwise. ----- confusingly the Lotus Ford Twincam and Cosworth BDA were also 1-3-4-2

well thought i'd bite the bullet and get a new coil, i've got another non-ballasted coil.
Have just hooked it all up but still no spark, so maybe not the coil after all....

To clear up, i have connected the coil with direct pos from the battery and neg is from the breaker in the coil.

Does the engine block have a good earth to the chassis? Does the battery have a good earth? I'm talking about big fat cables here...

How are you checking for a spark? All plugs out, with the plug leads connected but the plugs bodies lying against the engine block making electrical contact?

Did you remember to fit the rotor arm? (sorry - couldn't resist that one... )

Remove the dizzie cap and rotor arm check there is a visible 12v spark at the points when the engine is cranked on the starter.

Right,

i'm testing spark with the spark plugs out of the engine. Yes have had them earthed whilst doing so.
I do have massive fat earth straps from the engine, chassis and battery.

Anyway, maybe i have found my problem, i may have just been a retard....
Am i missing something from my dizzy cap?



Here's a pic of the arm and dizzy in case you guys can see anything else wrong, but am i missing something from the middle point on my dizzy cap?

Have you got a spark at the distributor cap end of the king lead? Pull it out and use a pair of insulated plier hold the end near to a good earth point and get someone to crank the engine over to test. If no spark the try fitting new points and condensor put a small dab of grease on the heel of the points (the bit that rubs on the cam) rotate the engine by hand to turn the distributor so that the corner of the cam is against the plastic heel of the points (fully open) Set the gap between the points to 0.025". Check for battery voltage at the coil , if low you could have a resistor system, check voltage when cranking. check at the points end of the low tension lead as well before connecting to the points. Make up a small lead (3" or so)with ring terminals at each Distributor cap, rotor arm end , fit this between one of the points securing screws and one of the distributor baseplate securing screws this wlll reduce the voltage drop across the points and help to give a good spark. Distributor cap, rotor arm points and condensor shouldn't cost a lot so it might be worth fitting the lot

Ford pound shop dizzie it just looks like bits are missing but thats the way it was made.

[Edited on 28/3/11 by britishtrident]

Looking at the picture closley the points aren't closing --- you need to set the gap at full lift of the dizzie cam lobe.

how can you see that on such a crappy res pic?

Hi guys old thread I know but how do you wire a ballast resistor in? Is it a wire straight from the battery positive to the ballast and then a negative from ballast to coil? Cheers Wayne

In normal running all the current flowing through the coil goes through the ballast resistor

Battery + ---> ign switch ----> Ballast ----> coil + ---> dizzy



But when the starter is operated the Ballast is by-passed, on Fords normally this done by a wire from a special extra terminal on the starter solenoid (but it can alternatively be achieved with a relay.

You can get away without wiring a by-pass for the ballast but this will make the engine harder to start.

I'm having real problems getting my crossflow to start, wonder if I haven't got the bypass wire from starter solenoid, do you know how this is wired in? Many thanks Wayne