This is the release bearing:
This is the release fork it SHOULD fit:
This is the release fork that I HAVE:
http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/Bellhousings/Bellhousing-Accessories/Duratec-to-Ford-Clutch-Release-Arm/prod_24.html
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
At the moment I am installing a Duratec and bought the type 9 cable clutch bellhousing from RWD motorsport. I then bought the flywheel and clutch
setup from Raceline. I think the raceline flywheel and clutch uses a rover flat fingered cover plate, whereas the RWD setup uses pinto.
So, the mixed setup I have means that the release bearing does not meet with the fingers enough to disengage the clutch. My plan had been to use a
longer release bearing CCT133 but having now received this the release fork I have does not have the little 'tab's that locate the release
bearing.
My question:
Would it be a problem to slide the release bearing on the gearbox shaft before fitting the gearbox to the engine. There would be nothing holding it on
or locating it, but it would be wedged between the release fork and the clutch cover so it can't go anywhere.
Is this a disaster waiting to happen?
Mark.
[Edited on 6/4/11 by Tiger Super Six]
should be ok at first but as the clutch wears the bearing could have a lot of play to move around, it wonder if it could end up trapped at an angle.
Can the bearing housing actully spin? which it shouldn't do
some pics would help a lot tbh
Cheers for the reply - I have put the pic's in my archive, but hopefully they come out below:
This is the release bearing:
This is the release fork it SHOULD fit:
This is the release fork that I HAVE:
http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/Bellhousings/Bellhousing-Accessories/Duratec-to-Ford-Clutch-Release-Arm/prod_24.html
Thanks in advance,
Mark.
Why not pop rivet two tabs onto your lever. They only hold it central and should not see a lot of load. As Mr W says without locating it on the fork
it may tip and jam.
RD 
quote:
Would it be a problem to slide the release bearing on the gearbox shaft before fitting the gearbox to the engine. There would be nothing holding it on or locating it, but it would be wedged between the release fork and the clutch cover so it can't go anywhere.
Is this a disaster waiting to happen?
Mark.
I think looking at the two release arms, the first one is pointed up to where the release bearing pivots on those nobs, whereas the other (RWD) is
flat and the bearing has a pivot built into it. So I think I may have answered my own question, I don't think that using the RWD (flat) release
arm with a bearing that doesn't have the pivot built into it will work, gggrrrrrrrrrrr 
Don't know if it was a slip of the 'pen' but that's a pic of a CCT133 release bearing. (I took it 6 years ago doing a zetec conversion and measured it with my lidl verynear gauge for the dimensions.)
quote:
Originally posted by Dusty
Don't know if it was a slip of the 'pen' but that's a pic of a CCT133 release bearing. (I took it 6 years ago doing a zetec conversion and measured it with my lidl verynear gauge for the dimensions.)
I was looking at burtons site and they have these extension parts that they say add 8mm for other clutches
If you go onto their catalog they explain how works, this link -
linky
linky
[Edited on 6/4/11 by Mr Whippy]
Most people I know with Duratec have converted to Hydraulic clutches me included, I have use the Titan motor sport set up.
You could try and adjust the pivot point by tapping out the hole were your current pivot sits putting in a stud with a couple of nuts and adjusting it
until you get the desired effect. There's a thread on here somewhere doing same thing.
You also need to check the fingers on the clutch plate that they are not to long and hit the guide tube or they will need trimming in length - did
mine with a dremmel -Do you know if the Raceline clutch is for RWD or FWD -the latter will need trimming.
Titan make the bells for all the suppliers, I have fiesta ST150 fly wheel Techni-clutch RS Turbo HD pressure plate, AP racing HD Pinto plate and SAAB
thrust bearing
Duratec bell housing
[Edited on 6/4/11 by big-vee-twin]
Thanks for the ideas - I don't think that the spacer will work as that is not the right shape for my release bearing and I think it's for
use with hydraulic clutches.
I have looked at moving the pivot point but it will mean that the clutch cover will run very near the extended pivot as you need a nut or something to
hold it all together.
A piece could be fabricated but I don't have the tools or knowledge and to pay someone to make a one off will be expensive.
Mark.
Can you not simply weld on a couple of small fingers to the fork to locate the bearing? I wouldn't pop rivet them though, wouldn't last 5 minutes IMO.
That was an initial thought (agree on the rivets), but looking at the picture and the two bearings the 'pivoting' on the release fork seems
to now also be an issue. If the flat bearing and flat release bearing I have were put together, as the fork pulled forwards you would put more
pressure on one side of the fingers than the other and I guessing that won't be good longer term.
[Edited on 6/4/11 by Tiger Super Six]
I see what you mean. Would it be possible to form a couple of shallow 'V's from some strip steel (with the tabs as well) to emulate the shape of the original fork in this area?
Is a flat thrust bearing face and flat fingers ok?
I would have thought one or the other should be rounded to allow the other surface to 'Roll' round it.
The RWD set up uses a RS 2000 release bearing which is rounded. Perhaps you need to buy that.
[Edited on 6/4/11 by big-vee-twin]
I actually have the RWD release bearing and it's flat, but the clutch fingers are part of the raceline set up which are flat. The RWD set up would have domed fingers which would make it correct as you say. This appears to be another problem. Think I will have to get the RWD flywheel and clutch.