Wonder if anyone out there can help me with my ongoing clutch issue;

I am currently building a Duratec engined car and have experienced probems on the slave cylinder spacing, I originally installed the engine and gearbox with the slave fitted directly to the bellhousing and when it came to bleeding the clutch system the slave popped !

Below is the setup I have :

Ford Duratec Engine
Fiesta ST Flywheel (Solid type)
Pinto Clutch Plate
Fiesta ST Pressure Plate
Mondeo V6 Slave Cylinder
12mm Spacer (fitted behind slave)
Raceline Bellhousing
Mitchell Cotts Gearbox

This all fits together nicely but I am still unsure of the spacing I need to push the slave cylinder forward towards the pressure plate, After all the faffing, I am not happy to put it all back together until I know its correct.

I have measure the gap between the inside face of the bellhousing and the pressure plate fingers and subtracted the space the slave takes up, this leaves me 2 mm but the slave is supposed to be sprung loaded and has a full travel of 20mm, so my logic would be to not have the slave fully loaded but perhaps half so 10mm plus the 2mm gap would calculate a 12mm spacer ????

Can anyone confirm my assumptions or if not point me in the right direction, Thanks
Steve

The fingers on the pressure plate will move back towards the slave cylinder as the clutch wears.

If I remember correctly a knackered plate will move the fingers back about 4 or 5mm so you only need to allow that much.

Also you need to work out how much to limit your pedal stroke to to avoid over travel on the pressure plate and avoid popping the slave cylinder.

Size your spacer to give 5mm clearance to fully compressed. Then once its all together fit a pedal stop just beyone the point at which the clutch disengages, test it by puttig it in gear and gently pressing down on the clutch until it will roll freely, at that point get a helper to measure up for a pedal stop.

Job done

I used Triton components but did the same as you - measured from bell rear face to fingers and subtracted the length of the slave, I placed the tube on which the cylinder travels along just inside the fingers so the last 10-15mm of travel depresses the clutch this allowed 5mm behind the bearing to allow for clutch wear.

I ended up with a 12mm spacer funnily enough.

To allow the end of the tube to sit within the fingers their length had to be trimmed using a dremmel, Flak did the same.




[img]
Duratec bell housing [/img]

Thanks for the comments, I will take note.

On a separate note does anybody know a source/supplier for a flexible bleed pipe for the clutch slave, the mondeo unit comes with a rigid metal pipe about 100mm in length but this makes it virtually impossible to bleed once fully installed in the car.

I believe the fitting is M8 ??

Thanks,

Steve

Made mine up using the stuff rally design sell, used a female bulkhead fitting on the end of the flexi which accepts a standard bleed nipple.

Rally D also sell a kit for about £30 ready made up.

Steve

I am very near to fitting my clutch and slave cylinder too

I have the raceline style bellhousing and am looking at getting the Mondeo V6 slave cylinder

Where did you get your spacer from?

one thing Ive been wondering when looking at the various spacers from Burton and rwdmotorsport is that when fitted it looks to me like the outlets on the cylinder will be in the wrong position and no longer line up with the holes in the top of the bellhousing, is this the problem you have?

Flak monkey, What promoted you to go the SAAB slave cylinder route in the end over the Mondeo V6?

I have a lightened flywheel and therefor the arp 5905-1 clutch housing, would the SAAB cylinder be okay for this set up.

Many thanks

Patrick

I bought the raceline bellhousing, lighter Flywheel and their clutch setup as well. I didnt buy the V6 actuator from them, but had the Ford part number and so got an aftermarket job for around £49.

I am rather hoping that as I have purchased all of the Raceline recommended stuff that there will be no spacing,cutting, shimming etc required. Watch this space as I hope to have had a trial fit by the end of the weekend.

The last attempt was aborted due to the type9 requiring the cutting of the "nose Shaft" to allow the actuator to fit. Not had a chance to try again because of work.

Karlak

Did you receive any kind of spacer from raceline?

I look forward to seeing how you get on as it sounds like you have the same setup as myself.

good luck with it

Patrick

quote:

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Originally posted by redeye
Karlak

Did you receive any kind of spacer from raceline?

I look forward to seeing how you get on as it sounds like you have the same setup as myself.

good luck with it

Patrick

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I bought my spacer from Caterham for a quite modest price of ~£15 plus postage, I have drilled through the threaded holes so I can keep the orienation of the slave vertical by opening up the fixing holes and using longer fixings.

I believe you dont need a spacer only when using the dual mass flywheel which is much thicker than a standard or lightened flywheel.

I just have the problem now with the bleed system.

Thanks for the info guys.

Steve

quote:

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Originally posted by karlak
I bought the raceline bellhousing, lighter Flywheel and their clutch setup as well. I didnt buy the V6 actuator from them, but had the Ford part number and so got an aftermarket job for around £49.

I am rather hoping that as I have purchased all of the Raceline recommended stuff that there will be no spacing,cutting, shimming etc required. Watch this space as I hope to have had a trial fit by the end of the weekend.

The last attempt was aborted due to the type9 requiring the cutting of the "nose Shaft" to allow the actuator to fit. Not had a chance to try again because of work.

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quote:

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Originally posted by neilp1

quote:

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Originally posted by karlak
I bought the raceline bellhousing, lighter Flywheel and their clutch setup as well. I didnt buy the V6 actuator from them, but had the Ford part number and so got an aftermarket job for around £49.

I am rather hoping that as I have purchased all of the Raceline recommended stuff that there will be no spacing,cutting, shimming etc required. Watch this space as I hope to have had a trial fit by the end of the weekend.

The last attempt was aborted due to the type9 requiring the cutting of the "nose Shaft" to allow the actuator to fit. Not had a chance to try again because of work.

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Karlak,

Where did you buy the V6 actuator from and what is the part number?

Neil

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