I know its been done before, but is this right
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Hi Mark,
I did mine like this with no overheating problems:
Pat....
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Damm. Nothing better to do on a sunny Sunday than nit pick your drawing Mark. Non pressurised overflow/header and the flow through the heater is the other way round. Try visiting DPS for a downloadable simple image resizing program (shareware).
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Dusty, There is no heater, I have Corel 10, but forgot!

Avoneer, I did a search and found you diagram, but you have 3 outlets on your rad, I have 2. I have more outlets on the engine than places to go!

Mark

With no heater and a an astra header tank mine flows like this.

Top of header tank is fed from carb/manifold bottom of header is feeding half inch pipe on water pump,big pipe on water pump to bottom of rad and topm of rad to thermo house which has no bleed outlet or you can plug it.

Its been working fine

dusty's basic system is right, coolant is circulated around block etc until it gets hot enough to open thermostat, the coolant then passes out of top hose into radiator. the coolant then perculates down through it, being cooled by air passing through the fins. it emerges at bottom hose into block and round we go again.
the expansion tank serves to catch the overflow which happens when the coolant gets hot, as engine and rad cools it gets sucked back in .
so just blank off anything that does not now have a purpose, but I would suggest you connect the outlet from inlet manifold to where the heater return would have gone to.

Can anyone point out where the water hoses to the choke (I've got a 32/36 DGAV) fit into all of this? My engine came without any piping at all, and I don't see any obvious place to plumb the car in.

Cheers

John

Hi Guys,
With reference tot my plumbing diagram - my car was running around Elvington at the end of the day at about 110 degrees. Surely this is too bloody hot.
Anyone any ideas?????
Cheers,
Pat...

Pat

Did you have a distinct lack of power at temperature like that,if not i would think your gauge reading is a bit iffy.
When my pinto got hot last month it just about lost half its horses,i was told that if i was all timed up right i could be running lean which would make for hot running.
I have also upped the octane a touch with BP ultimate which makes it run a whole lot better,i've been advised to have a go with shell optimax too.

Thanks bob.
Don't recall much loss of power - saying that, I did spin the car at Elvington on my last lap and the bloody thing wouldn't start again and I was sat sideways in the middle of the track and I could see some Caterfield coming flying round the track. Started in the nick of time though.
How is yours plumbed???
And are you using a thermostat???
Cheers,
Pat...

Difficulty starting hot normally indicates rich mixture - but weak mixture will make the engine run hot.

I think you have rich/weak mixture syndrome?

Over advanced ignition will cause bad starting, but will give you more power, retarded ignition will cause overheating, but make starting easy.

You probably have over retarded/advanced/rich/weak mixture syndrome - or you just need a bigger rad for track days?

That could be the answer.
Have yet to get the car rolling roaded so cams were only set up roughly - exhaust blowing out lots of carbon....
Pat....

Mine is pretty much plumbed the same as yours and marks,its out of the 32/36 weber into the bottle on scuttle and then to the pump at 1/2" slot.

Water is pulled into the eng via large pipe on bottom hose through pump and top hose is to thermo house.

It does get a touch hot in traffic as i have mentioned before,but in normal circumstances there would be a fan ticking over in the tin top so i'm going to add a bypass switch to the fan to keep it cool in traffic.