Folks,
I currently have a complete 1.6cvh rear wheel drive set-up in my car which I want to replace with a 4age set-up. I have the 4age engine with TVIS
injection, ecu and gearbox.What would be the quickest, easiest and most cost effective route do to this. i.e what needs replacing/changing
to make the 4age work with least amount of changes. I would need the 4age engine loom?
Any input would be appreciated.
you could use an aftermarket mappable ECU ie Emmerald, Megasquirt etc or the donor one, if using the donor you would beed the loom, if not I would
still suggest utiliding the loom as it will have all the connectors required that can be re used. I think you will also need a bell housing, engine
mounts as a minimum a swirl pot and high pressure pump if running injection.
Personally a cheaper way is to keep it Ford and go down the Zetec or duratec route
I doubt a Zetec would be any cheaper. By the time you've replaced alternator, drive belt, sump, possibly water pump & starter motor, &
you still need an aftermarket ECU & throttle bodies/carbs/manifold etc. Tuppence for the engine, £2k for the bits to fit it!
Don't know much about putting the Duratec in a 7, but tho' a brilliant engine it is notoriously pricey.
I'm not sure exactly what is involved in fitting the 4AGE into a 7 as I use it transverse with its standard gearbox, injection etc.(hence why
although dearer to buy my kits are often cheaper/easier to get on the road! )
If you need a 4AGE loom I have one, & loads of other 4AGE parts should you need any - not looking for fortunes for any of it. If you want
anything, drop me a u2u or email, russbost at googlemail dot com
Regards Russ
Hi
Which 4-AGE engine is it? Early RWD one with toyota (T50) RWD box?
Or
MR2 engine with Type 9 - or T50 Box?
plus a few other possabilities..
But either way assuming it and the box is in RWD trim, then there's a couple of routes, as you say use the TVIS, with it's ECU and the
Toyota engine loom and then find someone who can do the magic joining the electrics - if you google '4age to RWD' there's a few folks
done this, especially in Australia and the States - This should be the cheapest.
Or
Junk the TVIS, Use an aftermarket ECU to control the ignition and run Carbs or use the ITB's off a 20V - there's several folks selling
manifolds etc for these conversions - This won't be the cheapest but will give more performance.
The good bit is, mounting it in the car should be straightforward as the engine mounts shouldn't be too far adrift and you can buy an appropriate
exhaust manifold from RAW. You'll probably need to chop the sump (when you do this use the 'Big Wing' method to keep the oil volume
constant and baffle it well ). The only thing that reguarly crops up as 'tricky' is the routing of coolant pipes as you end up with them
running fore and aft down the car if it's a later spec of engine - but it's more of a tricky job to make look neat than any significant
issue.
It's a very effective little engine, you can get up to 170 bhp out of one for relativly little money and they'll rev to 8.5k quite happiliy
(though uprated rod bolts are 'nice to have' on Carb's they sound more like a BDA than a BDA does.. - Though there's a story
there too..
Forgot to mention, if using the MR2 loom I have a lot of information re the wiring, if you keep existing fusebox & ECU then you only need 4 or 5 wires connecting to run the engine & a few more for the various sensors (oil, water etc) I have wiring colours etc.