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Pinto Water pumps
carlknight1982 - 16/9/11 at 10:09 AM

Ok guys is there any difference between the pumps for viscous and non viscous? Im really struggling with this over heating,
Ive replaced the stat for an 88Degree Item and checked it before i fitted it

Plumbed in as follows

Header tank drain to small fitting on water pump,
large fitting on water pump to botom rad hose
top rad hose to thermostat
small bleed on rad blocked.
bleed on thermostat to top of header tank.
coolant core on inlet manifold blocked off as using twin Dcoe's.

All pipes are new, header tank is used but ok (Rover Item) Rad was fitted new,
Cooling fan comes in on stat switch im 99% certain its pulling air into the engine bay.

Need to get this figured out as yesterday she boiled over on me.

Ideas Fellas?

westf27 - 16/9/11 at 10:21 AM

I plumbed a heater in from small pump outlet and returned to manifold.Maybe because you have blocked this off you are creating an airlock.If you are not using a heater then just connect the two with a pipe.

I am assuming that the engine mixture,ignition and cam timing is correct

[Edited on 16/9/2011 by westf27]

snapper - 16/9/11 at 10:31 AM

I use an 82 degree thermostat and a bleed T in the 16mm hose from pump to inlet manifold/head.
Thicker radiator with 2x42 cores and a 16 row oil cooler.
I have a full 13 row oil cooler setup with take off, thermostat and oil temp adaptor available if you require it
There is no difference in pumping from viscous or non viscous.
The 82 degree thermostat made a very big difference.
Try wedging open the rear of the bonnet 1/2" this allows hot air to flow out easily, if it helps you need more vents.

[Edited on 16/9/11 by snapper]

mcerd1 - 16/9/11 at 10:40 AM

quote:
Originally posted by westf27
I plumbed a heater in from small pump outlet and returned to manifold.Maybe because you have blocked this off you are creating an airlock.If you are not using a heater then just connect the two with a pipe.

^^ I've heard of a few people having airloacking issues when they don't use the heater, in fact bogg bros recommended I take their manifold with the takeoff regardless of my plans for a heater (that way its there if needed, even if you only run a bi-pass pipe)

the difference between viscous and non-viscous pumps is just the type of pulley that fits them as far as I know
the only thing that could affect the pump is the size of the pulley on the crank and pump - some pinto's had different size pulleys (LC engines like the transit one I think ??)



[Edited on 16/9/2011 by mcerd1]

RichardK - 16/9/11 at 10:44 AM

Sounds the same as mine except:

small bleed on rad wasnt blocked off but tee'd into bleed on thermostat to top of header tank. Tee'd it in ontop of the rocker cover if I remember right.

I'm sure you will have see my gallery before but this kind off shows how I did mine and never had an issue with cooling, is your expansion bottle top outlet higher than everything else?



Cheers

Rich

melly-g - 16/9/11 at 12:07 PM

No heater on mine, so went from small fitting on pump round to the inlet manifold.
Polo rad, used top bleed to top of header tank, drain from header tank tee'd into bottom hose to rad from pump.
Never overheated (So far!!).

adithorp - 16/9/11 at 12:21 PM

I'd say connect the small hose from the rad to the one on the manifold (the 2 heater connections). That allows a bypass flow when the stat is closed and gives more even temps within the block. Have the expansion bottle bottom fitting T'd into the bottom hose (top hose will work but not ideal) and T the rad bleed into the thermostat bleed to expansion bottle pipe.

Is your expansion bottle coolant level higher than the thermostat bleed outlet? It needs to be.

Is your presure cap good?

[Edited on 16/9/11 by adithorp]

jollygreengiant - 16/9/11 at 02:03 PM

For my cooling I used a rover 214 header tank (with mounting frame) plumbed into 'T' in the bottom hose (From water pump to bottom of radiator which is from a VW polo). Top hose from thermostat to top of Rad. Bleed hose from top of rad goes to top of header tank (collecting one bleed hoses from top hose with 'T' piece and a third bleed hose from top of thermostat with anther 'T' piece). The small coolant pipe under inlet manifold just connects straight to the small inlet pipe at the water pump (this would normally route through the interior heater matrix) and this will now cater for coolant circulation until the thermostat opens. The radiator has a fitting for a thermo switch for a cooling fan which can be mounted on the front or rear of the rad depending on space available.

Here's a pic of the instalation



Using the set up as above I have never since had a problem with airlocks or filling the system. The engine warms up quickly and once the thermostat opens (I think the 'stat' is 82deg and the fan switch is 88deg.) the temperature stays sat firmly on normal if the car is stationary, if it's on the move then the temp guage drops to cold.

I suspect that your first problem is that you have your header tank connected direct to your water pump instead of your bottom hose. Also that you have no coolant bypass circulation (manifold to water pump) as this allows water to be circulated and air to bled out from the cylinder head.


Hope this helps.


Oh and U2U sent

[Edited on 16/9/11 by jollygreengiant]

jacko - 16/9/11 at 07:32 PM

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=126111


Read this link and as i put in it check the grill for to small holes not letting enough air though
Jacko

rusty nuts - 16/9/11 at 07:47 PM

The pump for a viscous fan has a threaded boss for the fan apart from that there is no difference AFAIA

carlknight1982 - 17/9/11 at 08:30 AM

quote:
Originally posted by jacko
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=126111


Read this link and as i put in it check the grill for to small holes not letting enough air though
Jacko



I'd read that previously but thanks for pointing it out