Just tried to take the car off the drive for the first time since converting from a Pinto to a Duratec.

I'm using a lightweight flywheel, HD pinto clutch (cable not fluid) and type 9 box. As soon as I let the clutch out with the gearbox engaged for the first time I got a high pitch metalic grinding noise, now in I get the same nise everytime I put the clutch in.

I've recorded it and added to youtube, it's hard to hear it above the exhaust: Youtube link

I'm pretty confident the engine is now coming back out, but any thoughts would be appreciated.


Thanks
Alex

[Edited on 11/2/12 by se7ensport]

What pressure plate are you using, if its a FWD type the radial fingers on the plate may need trimming shorter as they will hit the tube that the thrust bearing travels along the one the input shaft spins inside

I'm using a Pinto clutch cover from Burtons: LUK CLUTCH COVER 2LTR SOHC FAST ROAD 215mm

This is combined with Duratec to Ford clutch release arm, clutch release arm pivot pin, Duratec cable clutch release bearing from RWD Motorsport.

Will get the car up in the air and see if I can shine a torch in to the bell housing from the gap by the release bearing.

[Edited on 11/2/12 by se7ensport]

Can't see any issues with any of those, would be interesting to find out what it is what you've got it out.

Engine sounds nice though with your new pipe on.

Loving the sound of the engine, just frustrated that I'm not driving it.

Just read this on the RWD website:

"Requires that the original tube where the thrust bearing slid needs cutting off leaving only the part that houses the oil seal."

I order over the phone and didn't get any fitting instructions; if this is the issue I'm going to be really pi$$ed off as this will be the second time I have had to take the engine out because of RWD not providing parts/info.

Will call them Monday to clarify, does anyone else have a cable operated RWD bellhousing in use that can confirm they cut the thrust bearing tube?

I cut mine off but that's because I'm using a Hydraulic set up, it is very easy to chop off. You can see below how the slave cylinder comes with its own guide tube.


[img]
Duratec clutch cylinder [/img]

There has been some issues with the pivot point position and different flywheel set ups, I suppose you will only know when its out again!!

Made a mistake with my earlier quote, the thrust bearing tube requiring cutting relates to the hydraulic clutch option.

What purpose does the spigot bearing fulfil? I haven't added one to the set-up, but RWD states "Converts crankshaft to accommodate a RWD gearbox. Fits in standard recess in crankshaft."

The spigot bearing fits into the centre of the flywheel and supports the end of the input shaft to the gearbox, without it the input shaft doesn't run central as it can move slightly.

It is a needle roller bearing and it taps in with a hammer. This may be your issue then.

I have one fitted was from RWD, they fit them into the Zetec engine as well.

[Edited on 11/2/12 by big-vee-twin]

Lack of spigot bearing certainly sounds like the issue, just removed the starter to take a look in the bell housing to see if I had done any damage, unfortunatley I can't see much.

I'll order a new bearing and then pull the engine out at the next opportunity, seriously worried I've damaged something though as the noise sounded like a stuck drill bit which can't be good.

Might not be much help but if i cant get in places too see i put my camera or phone and take a few pictures with the flash on so i can get a good idea before dismantling parts.

quote:

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Originally posted by samjc
Might not be much help but if i cant get in places too see i put my camera or phone and take a few pictures with the flash on so i can get a good idea before dismantling parts.

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Sounds plausible it's the input shaft rubbing in the end of the crankshaft - spigot bearing is there to support the end of the input shaft. 'Clutch pedal down' would put the weight of the friction plate on the input shaft and drag it downwards.