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Adrian
[Edited on 16-3-12 by AdrianH]
After a marathon stint in the garage this evening at quarter past eleven I was finally in a position to start her up for the first time since October.
Started a dream, first time round nearly and ran as well as ever, bar a very noticeable ticking at the top-front exhaust-side of the engine which
having whipped the rocker cover off I have tracked down to said hydraulic tappet.
As far as I can tell is totally empty and or fubared. The two parts moving totally freely relative to each other hand the valve only making about 1/3
lift.
So my questions are, given it appeared fine in October bar it dropping its coolant out.
- Have I killed it by getting it too hot?
- Has it died of natural causes over winter?
- If I give it some more sustained revs will it fix itself?
- If i buy a set after work tomorrow (£30?) how long will it take to fit them (or just one, for now)
- Will running it in said condition for day of autosolo (getting it warm and Six-Eight 2minute runs) do it any harm?
I have run it for maybe 10 minutes in total, mainly only at a high tick over, but being cold oil pressure was good.
Daniel
I have only had dealings with a 1.8 CVH hydraulic tappets, found a had an issue with one after complete dismantle and clean of head, found small piece
of 'gunk' was blocking hole in tappet, cleaned out with pin and ran ok after that. Checkthe tapet has not rotated and the hole needs to be
in a certain area. (1.8 again not sure on 1.9).
But with the simple tool found very easy to change tappets not taking a long time at all.
May be worth while taking tappet out and sitting in pot of oil and trying to fill it by pumping the tappet. a bit before refitting. I have 8 roller
style ones sat in garage as spares but suspect yours will be none roller?
Last comment would be take tappet out and try and check for clear oil way
Adrian
Sorry if disjointed reply back from a few pints.
Adrian, thanks for the quick reply. One of the things done over the winter was the fitting of a shorten sump so it's possible I've
introduced done dirt that go through the filter out just bad luck, what simple tool do you refer to? I have the Haynes for the relevant car and also
rebuilding the cvh so will take that to work for lunch hour reading.
The engine is afaik a powerengineering 1900 and is based on the 1600 block and head, although I don't know what lifters they used.
I have limited time to work on it as I'm at work all Friday and then meant to be off with the car Saturday for this autosolo!
Daniel
The simple tool I refer to is the spring compressor, sorry for that
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Adrian
[Edited on 16-3-12 by AdrianH]
Priming hydraulic tappets after a long lay-up can be a problem, I would add either a bottle of Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment or a
Litre of Dexron II automatic transimision fluid to the oil after a couple of hours running the tappet may return to normal operation.
Oil grade is very critical with hydraulic tappets, the oil should not be too viscous especially at the cold start end of the viscosity range, also
the oil should have enough detergent and anti-varnish aditives to keep the oilways clear and free flowing and the tappet free.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Priming hydraulic tappets after a long lay-up can be a problem, I would add either a bottle of Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment or a Litre of Dexron II automatic transimision fluid to the oil after a couple of hours running the tappet may return to normal operation.
Oil grade is very critical with hydraulic tappets, the oil should not be too viscous especially at the cold start end of the viscosity range, also the oil should have enough detergent and anti-varnish aditives to keep the oilways clear and free flowing and the tappet free.
quote:
Originally posted by Nurburg2006
They are easy to replace on the cvh engine. Take the plugs out get a long screwdriver make sure the piston is up before you using the tool listed above otherwise the valve will disappear down the bore. Take the rocker arm of use the tool to compress the spring down use a magnet to remove the collets loosen tool off remove the spring and tappet hay presto then rebuild in reverse. I've got a 1.9 cvh race engine too but I've got the rs1600i tappets as mine revs to 8500. I hope this helps.
As said above try some Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment first before stripping the follower
Its available from Halfords and is about £6 iirc
The oil seems a bit thick (Cold start value) at 20 for a hydraulic lifter, but if thats what everybody else is
using i guess it must be right
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Slightly unsure as to why I need to remove the valve spring to get the tappet out? Do i not just removed the rocker with the valve remaining inplace?
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Priming hydraulic tappets after a long lay-up can be a problem, I would add either a bottle of Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment or a Litre of Dexron II automatic transimision fluid to the oil after a couple of hours running the tappet may return to normal operation.
Oil grade is very critical with hydraulic tappets, the oil should not be too viscous especially at the cold start end of the viscosity range, also the oil should have enough detergent and anti-varnish aditives to keep the oilways clear and free flowing and the tappet free.
Ok, might be worth a shot with the atf/wynns tip.
Im using Valvoline VR1 20W-50 on recomendation from other people with CVH's as well various forums, it is quite thick on startup but has never given problems over the last 3 years of ownership, although the engine hasnt not run for as long as this before.
quote:
Originally posted by Nurburg2006
They are easy to replace on the cvh engine. Take the plugs out get a long screwdriver make sure the piston is up before you using the tool listed above otherwise the valve will disappear down the bore. Take the rocker arm of use the tool to compress the spring down use a magnet to remove the collets loosen tool off remove the spring and tappet hay presto then rebuild in reverse. I've got a 1.9 cvh race engine too but I've got the rs1600i tappets as mine revs to 8500. I hope this helps.
Slightly unsure as to why I need to remove the valve spring to get the tappet out? Do i not just removed the rocker with the valve remaining inplace?
That said, althought its not great, the more I hear about the issue the more and more happy I feel just driving it this weekend, with or without some slosh added to the oil, and getting it back in the garage to sort out next week when iwill have more time (or even the week after).
Daniel
5w/40 fully synthetic would be a much more suitable grade.
I first encountered hydraulic tappets in Yankee V8 engines and thr old R-R V8, I used to look after a Silver Shadow that would be layed-up for
months at a time, we restarted it had to be left idling for 2 hours to allow oil to work it way into the tappets, that was on the original 1970s era
GTX which was a 20w/50 later I discovered the ATF trick which made a big difference.
These days for normal tintop road use in engines with hydraulic tappets tend to use 5w/30 fully synth, it works a treat reducing tappet noise in
Rover K engines.
quote:Sounds good to me.
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
You are perfectly correct on this, with the CVH engine there is absolutely NO need to take the collets, cap or spring out UNLESS you are replacing the valve stem oil seal.
Just undo the the locking nut, remove the rocker arm, Remove the hydraulic Lifter. Strip the Hydraulic lifter onto a piece of lint free matterial, laying parts out as you strip in order. Check all oilways on lifter and generally clean as you inspect.
Reassembly is a simple(s, shhhnick) operation, oiling all parts as you go. re-fit lifter, refit rocker arm (you should by rights use a new nut).