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Leaky Zetec Sump Gasket - tightening advice needed
Xtreme Kermit - 14/10/12 at 09:12 PM

Guys, I am trying to sort an oil leak from the sump on my Zetec blacktop with an ERA sump.

Does anyone know the correct tightening sequence/torque - and do I use goo too?

The last time I tightened it up in sequence until the sump pulled up tight to the block.

Is this overtightening it and knackering the gasket?

snapper - 15/10/12 at 06:08 AM

Yes pulling up tigh will cause the gasket to bulg out especially around the bolts
Sumps tend to use very little torque typically 3 to 10 Ft/lbs
I clean thoroughly then put a small bead of silicone outside of the bolt holes, not to much or it'll get in the sump
You have to also fit the rubber round the crank bearing again carefull aplication of silicone
I use the sump to hold the gadket in place until the gasket it stuck to the block
Then off with the sump and put the thinest of beads on the sump lip and nip up the sump to the required torque
You can do this in one hit if your carefull
And you can smear sealant round the gap between sump lip and engine
You can put a light smear on the bolt heads to seal the bolts

Paul Turner - 15/10/12 at 06:51 AM

Start in the middle and work towards either end, do it in 3 stages. the correct torque is in the Ford manual and when tightened the sump will be touching the block.

No need for any sealant other than a dab at the 4 points where the front and rear alloy covers meet the block. There is a small step when the engine is assembled and the sealant prevents leaks from these 4 areas. Ford make a specific sealant but in 10 years engine silicone has worked fine for me. Do not use too much and do not use bathroom silicone.

adithorp - 15/10/12 at 07:31 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Paul Turner
Start in the middle and work towards either end, do it in 3 stages. the correct torque is in the Ford manual and when tightened the sump will be touching the block.

No need for any sealant other than a dab at the 4 points where the front and rear alloy covers meet the block. There is a small step when the engine is assembled and the sealant prevents leaks from these 4 areas. Ford make a specific sealant but in 10 years engine silicone has worked fine for me. Do not use too much and do not use bathroom silicone.


+1

...altough I prefer BlueHylomar to silicone. Sealant on the rest of the sump gasket tends to act as a lubricant and help the gasket squish out.

Xtreme Kermit - 15/10/12 at 05:36 PM

Ta for this.

Do you know the three torque settings I can use?

Paul Turner - 17/10/12 at 11:23 AM

Sorry for not replying sooner, been away from PC.

1st stage I use is to tighten the bolts starting at the centre so that the sump just contacts the block.

2nd stage is to tighten again from the centre to 9 lbsft

3rd stage is to tighten from the centre to 18 lbsft

Use sealant at the 4 positions mentioned above, I use engine silicone but blue hylomar should be fine if that is what you have. You do not need much.

In 10 years on 3 engines I have never had as much as a drip. Luxury after years of x-flows.

Ensure all threads in the block and on the bolts are clean before starting and ensure there is no old sealant on the block or sump.

Xtreme Kermit - 17/10/12 at 12:33 PM

No problems - me too....

Thanks for this - it sounds like I did it nearly right last time, but not knowing the torque settings, did it by feel.

I didn't use any sealant though and this may have caused my problems (assuming that the ERA sump is the exactly the same shape as the standard Zetec ally one.

I should get the gasket picked up today, so tomorrow night will be the night!

Paul Turner - 17/10/12 at 12:41 PM

The shape of the sump does not make any difference, both the standard Ford and the ERA sump are level from end to end with no steps. The step you need the sealant on is on the block between the front and rear covers.

Xtreme Kermit - 19/10/12 at 09:32 AM

Thanks. The sump is all cleaned, washed out and now drying off. I'll nip out and get some hylomar.