Board logo

Checking oil level on a dry sump
parkiboy - 8/1/13 at 09:12 PM

I have recently had a dry sump fitted to my busa engine, this Saturday I was checking the car over before going for a quick blast, I was told where the oil should be to approximately on the alloy tank however there's that many baffles in there you cannot see where the oil is even with a torch.

How are you supposed to correctly do this?


daniel mason - 8/1/13 at 10:03 PM

fill the tank so oil is above top baffle. with slightly more oil it should cool it a bit better as its taking loger to pump round the system, sop the same oiis circulated less regularly.
are your oil temps hot or good? and what about pressure?

[Edited on 9/1/13 by daniel mason]


snapper - 9/1/13 at 06:39 AM

It's a dry sump system, there won't be any oil in the sump, all the oil is in the seperately tank.
You need a site tube fitted to the dry sump tank


parkiboy - 9/1/13 at 08:15 AM

Oil temp and pressure gauges are on my to do list over winter, it did not come with them when I bought it.

Seems a bit daft they don't come with the site tube? How would you go about doing this?

I love driving my BEC but every little job seems to be a nightmare, I don't know if its because I'm used to car engines or what, and after the bottom end already giving in on my first drive out after IVA I am always worrying it will happen again, I don't really want to but I'll be lying if I said I hadn't been thinking of taking out the busa and swapping it for a s2000 lump :-/


Paul Turner - 9/1/13 at 08:56 AM

Do not fill the oil tank above the top baffle. If you do it will not allow the oil to swirl and get rid of air bubbles as per the design.

When I was dry sumped I made a simple wooden dipstick (garden cane) and I filled so that the oil was about an inch below the top baffle. Many owners used to check the level with the engine running but I found it pretty much impossible. the garden cane served me well fro 12 years or so.


GreigM - 9/1/13 at 09:51 AM

Depends a lot on the tank design, but the oil needs to drip down over the baffles as described above by Paul. I have the westfield tank and it has 2 baffles, one about 60% of the way up the tank and the top one about 80% of the way up the tank. I have always filled up to the lower baffle and no higher and never had any issues with oil levels.

Theoretically so long as there is enough oil in the tank that the tank doesn't run dry (ensuring the oil pumps always find all the oil they need) then you have enough - in some engines this can end up with less oil in the system than there would be with a traditional "deep" sump, but in practice you'll have an oil cooler in the mix as well as some length of hose then you end up using more - again depending on your tank design.


parkiboy - 9/1/13 at 12:18 PM

It's the one made by sbd motorsport, it is specifically designed with the hayabusa engine in mind, I suppose the best thing I could do is send them an email and see what they recommend.


beaver34 - 9/1/13 at 05:06 PM

i would be intrested to see what they say, i fill mine halfway up only used on the rollers so far so no been on the road yet


daniel mason - 9/1/13 at 08:10 PM

this is interesting. i know some tanks differ in design but i was told to fill mine up to the under side of the top baffle. some tanks,like the radical ones are un baffled and square in design which also seems strange. an oil catch tank can be fitted from the breather wich should help if your oil is airiated.
i would never run a busa with no oil pressure gauge, its critical and needs to be in your direct line of sight ideally so its easily monitored!


redturner - 14/1/13 at 12:18 PM

Fill it just below the top baffle and use a cane as a dipstick as I do. Do not fit a site tube. I will guarantee that it will leak...