Hi,.. I have a dry sump on my zetec and the tank for the oil is in the engine bay. The plumbing includes a remote oil filter and an oil cooler.

The problem that I have is that the oil tank is a few inches higher than the sump and so when the engine is left, oil drains down and everything gets too full of oil.

What I have in mind is a spring loaded valve that requires the suction of the pump to pull it open, but will close when the pump is not pulling,.....

Does anyone know if such a thing exists, or indeed of a better solution?

Please all suggestions gratefully received

I have a similar issue however mine is scaveng only which means I use the internal pump.... So I guess not so much drains into the sump.....

Dave B

Dave,

is your tank higher than the sump,..?

I think that the only alternative is to turn the pump by hand, so that the excess is pumped out of the sump,.

However I am sure that some one must make the valve thing that I need......?

I think they will pretty much always be... What is your concern about starting with oil in the sump? Crank wash and drag for turning over?

Dave B

not sure about the issues, but it doesn't seem happy at all after it has sat with excess oil in the sump...

can it do any damage if there is too much oil in there?

What do you mean doesn't seem happy....? I guess if the oil pump has drained back and the tank is empty then the oil pump is not primed and it may take a bit of time to prime and starve the motor... I am no expert but me only having scavenge does change things so what....

Dave B

I have run racing cars with dry sump systems for years and am currently running one with a Zetec B/T. You need the outlet port of the DST about 1" below the inlet port of the pump. Oil will always find it's way back through the pump elements and this wont cause a problem. I always start the engine before checking the level in the tank but occasionally will check the level before and after to check for any losses. Remember that the oil will always be available for the pressure side as it is already in the pump and will always find a level where you wont starve it. I produce dry sump pans for various engines and have never had a problem where a customer has asked for some one way valve to be fitted.

[Edited on 4/7/13 by redturner]

Excellent thank you for your help,.. very reassuring

you could use a hydraulic check valve inline. I will be using one for my Accusump.

A check valve is a must with the Accusump which is an entirely different system.....

thanks again guys, I asked the man at Pace, and this is what I got,..

Oil does sometimes drain back into the sump, this is not a problem. ensure that there is Oil in the Tank when you start the engine. Obviously do not add any more Oil.

If the Oil is low in the Oil Tank I would recommend the system is re primed.


So it would seem that it is ok,.. and not a concern phew I was worried for a bit that I would have to relocate the tank elsewhere,....

Just to reinterate and put your mind at rest, if you can see oil in the tank just fire it up and remember that the scavenge side works twice as hard as the pressure side and will top the tank up before it goes dry.

one thing that confuses me with oil systems - perhaps others can help - would it be a good idea to crank the engine over without starting if the oil has drained into the sump?

The only time you would need to prime the system is after a rebuild and what I do is to take the belt off and prime the system by running the pump up with the drill. It is never primed any other time.

this was of great interest to me, however, since the oil hose came off on Saturday morning causing the engine to let go in spectacular fashion,... I am slightly less worried about the oil more worried about where I might get another 1600zetec from,...