been out in car today and clutch slipping a bit and with due to previous life theres chance plates would be worn as it was used a sprint/hill climber i know 12 months ago it has had barnett springs so whats my best options
Factory Yam.
will spring need replacing?
just do plates, Spring will be fine,
I'd go for genuine friction plates and a new set of barnett h/duty springs. Inspect the steels and replace if distorted. There's differing
opinions on the springs as some re-use and others always change (got a mate who changes them every year). For what they cost I'd fit new ones.
My old engine started to slip after a year on the road and I measured the plates (OK) and just fitted new springs. Lasted another 5 years/ 15000+miles
and still going strong when I swapped motors... so it might be worth measuring the plates.
There's loads of aftermarket frictions but people have had issues with them so I'd avoid. Don't forget to soak the frictions in oil
before fitting.
MAIN DEALER CHEAPEST PLACE TO GET THEM?
First thing to check before ripping the clutch out is cable.
Needs to have some free play on the clutch lever, as when it warms up and expands if you have no free play the clutch will not be fully off as the
cable will be holding it on slightly, this causes it to slip.
I've just fitted a full barnett clutch to mine with the spring conversion plate and carbon fibre clutch plates, really nice feel to the clutch
now.
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
First thing to check before ripping the clutch out is cable.
Needs to have some free play on the clutch lever, as when it warms up and expands if you have no free play the clutch will not be fully off as the cable will be holding it on slightly, this causes it to slip.
I've just fitted a full barnett clutch to mine with the spring conversion plate and carbon fibre clutch plates, really nice feel to the clutch now.
how much was all that kev and how much play u left in youre cable?
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
First thing to check before ripping the clutch out is cable.
Needs to have some free play on the clutch lever, as when it warms up and expands if you have no free play the clutch will not be fully off as the cable will be holding it on slightly, this causes it to slip.
I've just fitted a full barnett clutch to mine with the spring conversion plate and carbon fibre clutch plates, really nice feel to the clutch now.
Out of interest, how much cable travel do you have?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/04-06-YZF-R1-Barnett-Complete-Carbon-Fiber-Clutch-Kit-w-OEM-Gasket-/231536172664?hash=item35e8a19e78
That kit includes everything to renew your clutch
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Out of interest, how much cable travel do you have?
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Out of interest, how much cable travel do you have?
Accordingto Yam' manual there should be 10-15mm free play at the end of the handlebar lever. Think I've got about 1/2 that at the gearbox lever.
How long have you had the carbon plates in? I've seen plenty of reports of kevlar plates not lasting or causing issues.
what oil are you using and how much? i also have baffled sump
I use 15 50 Elf semi synth.
I fill to the top of oil sight glass with engine idling, probably about 300-400ml overfill.
With Barnett plates you can run fully synth oil, but standard Yam plates you need to use semi synth.
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
...but standard Yam plates you need to use semi synth.
what viscosity is the motul you are using?
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Out of interest, how much cable travel do you have?
Accordingto Yam' manual there should be 10-15mm free play at the end of the handlebar lever. Think I've got about 1/2 that at the gearbox lever.