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Cylinder Honing Tool
bikecarbfred - 30/11/15 at 09:14 PM

Are the ebay hone drill attachment tools good enough?
What's a good brand?

I'm planning on doing it my self. I have a variable speed drill and from my understanding the crucial thing is not to over do it and not to stop honing half way and drag out the drill.

cliftyhanger - 30/11/15 at 09:26 PM

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/CTL2803994F?gclid=CjwKEAiAhPCyBRCtwMDS5tzT03gSJADZ8VjRKKvqDZ8bwMUfhMclAjBWAk70Hw2S4YjRiVJzk60RmxoCoNnw_wcB

I have used one similar many times, and borrowed from a chap who uses it regularly for work. Very easy to use, battery drill, squirt of WD40 or similar and a few plunges up and down, job done. Never used one with the flat blades, not sure they would be as forgiving to use.

bikecarbfred - 30/11/15 at 09:37 PM

quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/CTL2803994F?gclid=CjwKEAiAhPCyBRCtwMDS5tzT03gSJADZ8VjRKKvqDZ8bwMUfhMclAjBWAk70Hw2S4YjRiVJzk60RmxoCoNnw_wcB

I have used one similar many times, and borrowed from a chap who uses it regularly for work. Very easy to use, battery drill, squirt of WD40 or similar and a few plunges up and down, job done. Never used one with the flat blades, not sure they would be as forgiving to use.


Yeah my next question was which grit as those flat blade ones were the ones I saw on ebay. The draper ones were 180 grit and that scared the heck out of me.


240 grit on the style you've posted seems more forgiving if your going to take it slow. Would one minute suffice?
I don't want to take any metal off. just take glaze off and put new rings n pistons.

cliftyhanger - 30/11/15 at 09:45 PM

I just used the drill on slowish speed, probably 400rpm or less. And about 10-20 seconds a bore? doesn't take long.

[Edited on 30/11/15 by cliftyhanger]

bikecarbfred - 30/11/15 at 09:50 PM

Need to look for a 3" one. the bores are 76.3mm

So does that mean I need one just over 3 inches. This would be hard to find.

That's the advatange of the flat trident honing tools.

They are spring loaded and have the same pressure exerted all round the walls.

perksy - 30/11/15 at 09:50 PM

Have a look on youtube there are some useful videos on honing on there...

Flat blade ones are ok, but I like the flexihone ones as they are a bit more forgiving

its all in the technique

snapper - 30/11/15 at 09:52 PM

It's not really honing it's more deglazing you can only really get a proper hone finish with the proper gear in a machine shop
Actually putting a cross hatch on the bore walls.
That said I have heavily degraded bored with the eBay stones.
The biggest job was getting all the grit properly out of the bores, again a machine shop will hot wash the block
I did all the solvent cleaning I could then in a moment of inspiration (or madness) used a lint roller many many times until it ran clean and started to stick to the bore walls
Then washed again

perksy - 30/11/15 at 10:04 PM

The other thing to consider is do the bores need looking at in the first place ?

Eg Have they been checked & measured ? Are the original honing marks still visible for instance ?

Are there any ridges at the top of the bores or deep scratches within the bores ?


*If* its just a case of fitting new rings they will need checking and correctly gapping....

bikecarbfred - 30/11/15 at 10:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by perksy
The other thing to consider is do the bores need looking at in the first place ?

Eg Have they been checked & measured ? Are the original honing marks still visible for instance ?

Are there any ridges at the top of the bores or deep scratches within the bores ?


*If* its just a case of fitting new rings they will need checking and correctly gapping....


The bores are in good condition. Not even a scratch/line. But just super smooth like polished.
The tolerance are within the basic specification. All are around 76.4mm yet in the manual it says 76.5mm is NEW

So after 80,000 miles they have somehow managed to get smaller lol :p (could be because the measuring tool is catching the very top of the cylinder wall. I will have to double check this)

Oh and the ring gaps are within specs too.

All I want it the 45 degree criss cross scratch pattern and I BELIEVE the rest is okay to plug and play.



[Edited on 30/11/15 by bikecarbfred]

snapper - 1/12/15 at 05:55 AM

If compression is good leave well alone
There are various factory bore sizes around the stated one, you can have undersized bored to oversized ones straight out of the factory
If you do go for e re-hone you will need new rings as the hatch hone is to bed the rings in
The critical measurement is piston skirt width and bore size
There will be a min and max clearance for this

cliftyhanger - 1/12/15 at 06:49 AM

I always understood if you take pistons out of a bore, even if re-using the rings, you should hone/glaze bust the bores to prevent excessive oil use in future.
Never had an issue with bores, even a few with the odd imperfection.

The flexi-hone is just that, so get the next size up and all will be well.

britishtrident - 1/12/15 at 07:40 AM

If you are fitting new rings the bores must be glave busted, the surface finish should be a 45 degree crross-hatch with a surprisingly rough surface texture.
The roughness of the surface is required to retain oil on the surface and enable the rings to bed-in to match the curvature of the bore exactly.

coyoteboy - 1/12/15 at 11:47 PM

quote:

If compression is good leave well alone 
There are various factory bore sizes around the stated one, you can have undersized bored to oversized ones straight out of the factory 


Think I'd always rehone. Don't know about the majority of manufacturers but Toyota produce either 3 or 5 different piston sizes for the stock bore size. They also produce a heap of different main and big end bearing sizes for stock size.

bikecarbfred - 12/12/15 at 01:25 PM

Found a cheap-ish flexhone 76mm. is 300 grit rough enough?