Having final got my Dizzy from Holden, I attempted to fit it only for the bolt to shear in the block.

After a few choice words I got the ezeeout from work, but still no joy.

Anyone got any ideas for removing the remainder of the bolt before i have to remove the engine and strip it down as not to get any swarf in the sump, when i drill it out and retap the hole. (unfortuately the bolt is about 3mm below the surface of the block)

Rant over awaiting your words of wisdom.

ATB Dan.

Depends on how accesible it is and where it snapped in relation to the block, but I've had lots of success by putting a suitably sized nut over the remaing bolt and welding through with the MIG. Gives you a nice fresh hex to turn it with and the heat really loosens things up.

No can do the shank of the bolt is still 3mm below the surface of the block.

Thanks anyway Dan.

Buy a bike engine,

My answer to every engine problem!

The only real option is to do as you said and drill out/retap I'm afraid. You could put a large magnet nearby on the block when you do it to stop the swarf dropping into the sump???

Thought as much, will strip it down to be safe.

Phelpsa, bike engine next time maybe, already got permission from the boss.

Cheers Gents, Dan.

You could try locost spark errosion. You need a piece of round copper bar to the size of the minor diameter of the stud to be removed, an old coil, a 12v door bell ringer and a 12v battery

hmmmm, knowing my luck the only thing left of the engine would be the smaal section of bolt.

Dan.

As this is a blind hole you should be able to drill it out without fear of getting swarf in the sump. Just shove something in the dizzy hole and drill away.

Left hand drill would probably pull it out without any drama

Megajolt 'n' Edis and forget the dizzy altogether?

James

If drilling out broken bolt is not successful what about drilling and tapping a new hole in the block? think there is more than enough room around distributor hole to do it and it doesn't matter where the clamp securing bolt fits as long as distributor can be rotated. Try covering hole in block with a plastic bung? or use gaffer tape, should be no need to strip down apart from may be removing inlet manifold, best of luck. Rusty

I wouldn't strip engine untill last resort. It would be a good idea to lay engine on its side and soak broken setscrew with re-lease oil for a weekend. Then try easy-out. If that didn't work then heating the offending setscrew with a brazing torch normally works, again using easy-out.
It will come out... u just gota not give in.

Good luck

Rather than taking a torch to the side of the engine (could be exciting! ), try heating a suitably-sized piece of steel to red-hot and then holding it against the remains of the bolt.

As a matter of interest, was it the bolt you were taking out that broke (i.e. seized) or the one going in (i.e. over-tightened). Unless it's jammed against the bottom of the hole, the second one should be much easier to remove. Mind you, sod's law says it's the first...

If you do get to the point of stripping the engine, take the block to any decent-sized engineering shop - they will almost certainly have a spark eroder. Last time I did that it cost me a £5 note to the tea fund.

rgds,

David

Personally I hate easy outs because they invariably break leaving you with an impossible job. Clear the work area, pack hole with paper and grease (use a cocktail umbrella to stop dropping into sump, hold on to stick with small mole grips) then centre and drill and then clean up threads with tap. Job Done.

I've always had good success with 'easy outs'.

The main problem is impatience!

It takes combinations of easing oil (Plus Gas best) careful drilling and heat later. Stopping if it doesn't work straightaway !!! Start again with easing oil.

Whilst drilling in critical areas, a 'Hoover' tube end is kept as close as possible to suck up the swarf.