Today on the rolling road my little Xflow blew a big leak from the rear crank seal, the main reason for taking the engine out in the first place!

It was from burton power. So the engine is coming out again to fit yet another one. The question is, is there any one seal better than another? I really don't want to have to pull the engine out again if I can help it.

Or failing that, is there anything different I need to do with a Xflow than with any other engine? I have replaced loads in the past and never had the same issue.

On the plus side it burst on the second to last run so all was not lost and she performed very well indeed for an old boat anchor!

Thanks in advance.

Xfows leak oil, they were designed to do so, its called chassis lubrication
also if its still leaking theres oil in it, if theres no leak ...................

I love my xflow

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Originally posted by steve m
Xfows leak oil, they were designed to do so, its called chassis lubrication
also if its still leaking theres oil in it, if theres no leak ...................

I love my xflow

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I know I shouldn't tempt fate - but my x-flow is quite good at holding onto its oil. It used to leak so bad that it always had a drip-tray underneath when in the garage, but then I changed the sump gasket to a posh competition one from Burtons* and it barely drops oil now. I used to put oil in the engine almost every time I looked under the bonnet, but now it's just the occasional top-up. (I'm going to regret saying that, I know I will..)

* That tip came from Rusty Nuts - thanks, Mel!

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
I know I shouldn't tempt fate - but my x-flow is quite good at holding onto its oil. It used to leak so bad that it always had a drip-tray underneath when in the garage, but then I changed the sump gasket to a posh competition one from Burtons* and it barely drops oil now. I used to put oil in the engine almost every time I looked under the bonnet, but now it's just the occasional top-up. (I'm going to regret saying that, I know I will..)

* That tip came from Rusty Nuts - thanks, Mel!

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Mine might have been Cometic - can't remember (see below). I recall that the fibre bits were blue! I know that the rubber bits that curve around where the fibre bits can't go were fiddly to fit... it seemed like I needed several pairs of hands and a few prayers to ensure that they went in nicely without getting pinched.

Update: It wasn't Cometic - it was this one.

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Originally posted by David Jenkins
Mine might have been Cometic - can't remember (see below). I recall that the fibre bits were blue! I know that the rubber bits that curve around where the fibre bits can't go were fiddly to fit... it seemed like I needed several pairs of hands and a few prayers to ensure that they went in nicely without getting pinched.

Update: It wasn't Cometic - it was this one.

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Did you change the breather system at all?

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Originally posted by rusty nuts
Did you change the breather system at all?

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Pipes to catch tank all clear and in good shape ?

(Just thinking internal crankcase pressure ?)

I know of one or two Zetecs that have popped the rear crank seal due to 'modifying' the breather system

ANY wear/groove on the rear crank journal ?


Burton seals are usually pretty good to be fair

did you remove the sump to change the rear main?

Yes, all breather pipes in good shape, all working as it should. Apart from the cap leaking oil but that is a given really!

When I say it blew the seal, that was perhaps a bit ott. It seemed to have a fair leak going at the time. Though the hammering it got will exaggerate things somewhat!

And yes, sump was removed. Every gasket and seal in the engine was changed for new. The only issue so far is the rear main seal. Well, I'm assuming it's the rear seal anyway as with the best will in the world, I don't think the sump would leak enough in that short space of time. I kind of hope I'm wrong though as that would be a much easier fix. I have a tube of sealant and I know how to use it!

Everything else about the engine was absolutely perfect. Oil temps good, oil pressure consistent, engine temp never budged.

I will second the "no leaks" on a crossflow. My 1300 must be behaving itself at present. Having said that, I did have an advisory at the last MOT but it was a leak from the oil pressure sender but that was around the plastic bit on the end which has the spade lug on it.
Perhaps when I finally get it onto a rolling road it will disgrace itself though.

I forgot to mention one more thing about the sump gasket - make sure that the mounting face is flat. I put mine on a very flat stone slab and found that it was quite out of shape; this was probably due to the welding I did when I shortened the sump.

I found that the rim was a fairly consistent distance from the mounting surface, so I took my measurements from that (much easier).

Did you lubricate the seal when it was fitted?Seals can be damaged by running them dry

What is the surface like on the crank?
It its worn then seal wont last long

A trick, if it works on this engine, is nit to tap it right down, maybe 1 or 2 mm out so the seal lip runs on the unmarked surface.

Are you sure you not got problem with breathing? Coukd high crank gas pressure forced oil past the seal.

both my cross flows are very good and reliably oil tight , and get well abused, The one problem I had, was the gearbox front seal went taking the clutch with it. Turned out the spigot bearing was Knackered and allowed "movement" but it had sat for 10 years in a field before I restored it or not.

I have ordered the bits so with any luck I can sort it over the weekend.

Checking the flatness(if there is such a word) of the sump is a good call. I shall check that while it's off.

The seal I greased, it's the same method I have always used and has never let me down.

Come to think of it, there may have been a very slight groove in the crank. I can't quite remember to be honest, my memory isn't quite what it used to be! I shall check that out. Good idea with fitting the seal a couple of MM out, it should work on the Xflow.

I do remember it was a real pig to fit. Perhaps I put a slight twist in it on the way in or something. It will be interesting to see when it all comes out again.

I'm pretty sure the breather system is fine. Though with the amount of stick it had on the rollers, perhaps it just cried enough! It went on the 11th of 12 runs, all within the space of an hour or so. It was getting revved harder(7500rpm) than I would normally on the road so that wouldn't have helped, not on every run I must add. I do know Xflows breathe heavily so I shall give it the once over too.

It does have a return too, would it be a possibility that with the pressure going into the catch tank, it is throwing some pressure back into the block through the return? It does have a tap on the bottom of the tank so I can just block off the return.

I also did check the front seal on the box too, I was going to change it as a matter of course but there was no sign of any leakage or damage so left it as it was.

Thanks again for all words of wisdom. I really appreciate it!

I fitted a BMW diff in a Skoda Estelle transaxle and left the inner drive shafts in place to prevent muck getting into the gearbox (vehicle parked outside) When I finally got to connect the drive shafts up and push the car back and forwards the fine outer 'lip' of the seal had stuck to the shaft and was torn off on both sides I think due to corrosion. ( I hadnt lubricated it)

What people usually do is connect hose from the breather fitted on the block to a catch tank, tank usually has a small filter fitted so is vented to air and no preasure build up.

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Originally posted by myke pocock
I fitted a BMW diff in a Skoda Estelle transaxle and left the inner drive shafts in place to prevent muck getting into the gearbox (vehicle parked outside) When I finally got to connect the drive shafts up and push the car back and forwards the fine outer 'lip' of the seal had stuck to the shaft and was torn off on both sides I think due to corrosion. ( I hadnt lubricated it)

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Originally posted by myke pocock
I will second the "no leaks" on a crossflow. My 1300 must be behaving itself at present. Having said that, I did have an advisory at the last MOT but it was a leak from the oil pressure sender but that was around the plastic bit on the end which has the spade lug on it.
Perhaps when I finally get it onto a rolling road it will disgrace itself though.

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