just eyeballed fitting the CVH sump (off my silvertop) onto myST170 engine.
And noticed an issue. The CVH pickup uses bracket that is attached to oneof the main bearing cap astepped stud/bolt on the old silvertop, but the ST engine uses std bolts. And to be even more annoying, the silvertop "stud" is too long to be able to swap.

So....is there a solution?
It is an m11 thread (I thinkl) and one possibility is buying a high tensile bolt, and HT nut to attach the main bearing cap, then pop the bracket on and bolt to hold that in place. Just an idea. (the briscar suggestion is to weld a studon the existing bolt, but that terrifies me as it will affect the bolt head heat treatment, and that is not a good thing)

You could use the silvertop stud if you have one with a 20mm spacer.
The sump still needs "adjusting" with a hammer to clear the oil pump. Then the oil pump and rear bearing cover need tapping m6 to help the spreader plates do there job. An extra hole or two in the baffle, one for the dip stick.


If this is for a Locost there are better options than a cvh sump.

https://goo.gl/images/768kck

[Edited on 17/12/16 by big_wasa]

It's for my spitfire. The CVH sump has worked well on the old engine, which is off to a new owner (without the sump or dunnell flywheel)

I had cut all but one of the old studs down, and obviously need to supply the engine without any other bits missing (think he needs/expects me to fit the sump he has bought)

Somebody has suggested "extending" the pick up pipe mounting bracket to fit under the main cap bolt head, but I am concerned that the bracket will deform. I have seen this happen wit older cars and head studs, people use a normal washer which deforms and torque is lost, HGF is the result. Not something I will risk. A chap also supplies a smaller 8mm bolt welded to themain cap bolt, reckons they work OK. But I worry that it will make the original bolt brittle, again a risk I wont take.

Looks like I am after a silvertop stud/bolt!