You say it's "getting" annoying - it's annoyed me already and it isn't even my car
Are there any engine/emerald guru’s near Melton Mowbray who could come and help?.
My 2.0 zetec has decided that it won’t run... I have spark at the plugs, fuel at the rail. The ECU is seeing the crank signal and as far as i can see
nothing has changed in the map, other than the coolant sensor resistance settings. I can see the TB connector hoses sucking so I’m sure I have
compression on all cylinders .
I have a new bosch fixed 3bar FPR fitted and fuel returning to the tank so I’m sure thats plumbed in the right way. The only thing I haven’t changed
is the fuel pump, but that seems to be fine other than sounding a little airy as it circulates the fuel. Pinch the fuel line and you can hear the
pumps note change with the pressure increase.
It ran fine a week ago before my FPR and coolant issues but they are now sorted? but it still won’t fire.
I’m meant to be sending IVA paper work of this week but don’t want to if my engine’s a deaden.
I have known others who have had issues if the ECU see's a coolant temp that it doesn't like and will refuse to run. Put the coolant sensor in some hot water and then try it again perhaps, tricking the ECU. Make sure you have 12v+ when cranking
quote:
Originally posted by ttalps2000
I have known others who have had issues if the ECU see's a coolant temp that it doesn't like and will refuse to run. Put the coolant sensor in some hot water and then try it again perhaps, tricking the ECU. Make sure you have 12v+ when cranking
I’ve tried tricking the coolant sensor to roughly 25degrees and still nothing. I checked it with a thermometer and the ecu see’s the correct temp.
What does your fuel pressure gauge say?
The older FPR wouldn’t adjust below about 3.5 - 4 bar the new FPR is at 3 bar.
are the plugs wet after after cranking
Try connecting your original coolant temperature sensor, doesn't need to be in coolant to try it. You may need to program the new sensor range into the map?
quote:
Originally posted by chris
are the plugs wet after after cranking
Everything you say points to something having broken, i.e. worked before now it doesn't. Out of interest I've just tried my car (Emerald
ECU) with the coolant sensor disconnected and it started fine.
From what it sounds like the fuel side is okay, presumably the light on the back of the ECU goes green when cranking? Do you have good charge in the
battery - ECU doesn't like a low voltage.
Have you got a spare set of plugs, leads and coil pack to try on it?
If Iwasn't 3 hours away I'd be there this evening!
Ecu voltage is good, cranking voltage is about 9.6v. Tried with the sensor in and out, same outcome with both.
Coolant settings have been programmed in the map correctly from karl at emerald. Green light in cranking red when not.
The only thing I can think of is perhaps I’ve lost the 12v at the injectors.
Can you take the manifold off and crank it to see if they spray fuel? Obviously take the precautions so you don't make a fire!
I’ve just ha 20 minutes in the garage checking.
1: I have 12v at the injectors, dropped to about 10v on cranking.
2: checked the chassis earth connection and tightened.
3: checked coil pack plug
4: Pulled the ecu plug and checked pins. Inj pin 24 slightly loose.
5: checked plugs (dry)
6: Loaded last known running map
7: battery fully charged, cranking at 9.7v
8: checked and tightened battery connections (new bigger battery leads to be fitted tomorrow)
I now have a splutter and an attempt at starting, so I’m getting closer.
Cranking speed reasonable?.
Ian
quote:
Originally posted by Oddified
Cranking speed reasonable?.
Ian
sounds like no fuel, get the easystart out
Been in the garage trying to get this sorted out.
1, double checked FPR. Good pressure at the rail.
2, injectors have 12v with ignition on. these deop to 9v when cranking???
3, used jump cables between battery+ and starter and - and chassis, cranking speed is alot better.
Still nothing
This is getting annoying.
Is the ECU earth a good healthy one? Are the injectors earthed through the ECU? Can you hold throttle butterflies open to see if injectors are
squinting when cranking? My battery voltage is about 11.9v when cranking if you belive my dash. Can you put some jump leads on just to help it? Have
you got a map switch wired in to the ECU and if so has it been changed?
You say it's "getting" annoying - it's annoyed me already and it isn't even my car
-Map switch is disabled
-earths are good I’ll check the pin outs on the ecu plug again.
-i'll check the injector firing later when the father in law comes round.
Check your TPS limits are set up correctly too, wouldn't hurt to reconfigure this if you've been playing around with maps - it might have gone wrong and be thinking it's WOT when it's actually not or vice versa!
TPS is ok and checked/reset... I’m going to try running a good seperate earth from the ecu (pin 29) i think, to the battery -
if that works i’ll have to strip all the wiring back to find the fault.
Just had a look in the emerald manual and it says low voltage when cranking can make it difficult to start 9-10v is normal though. Where are you measuring this, is it on the live emerald screen or somewhere else? Just thinking if you're measuring it somewhere else but the ECU for some reason has a lower voltage you could have a problem.
Measured from the map screen, Meter on the injector loom pins and from my volt gauge. They all read the same, 12v give or take, when it ran my gauge and the screen read 13v ish. I’m pretty sure the 12v supply is ok across everything. I do have a few earths all terminating at the same point so i might split them up onto another earth point to be sure they are all properly grounded.
Timing hasn't slipped has it?
Massive stab in the dark, but you seem to of covered most avenues
So, the leason for this week is just because you can see it, doesn’t mean its working...
IT ALIVE... Yey
The short story is, NGK platinum tip spark plugs are SHITE...
The slightly longer story is even though the test lights were flashing for each spark, the plugs weren’t actually sparking.
I removed all 4 and tested them out of the engine, earthed to the battery, I left the test light attached so i knew the coil was firing and nothing
from any of the plugs. They were smouldering little puffs of hamster fart... So it seems i actually had 3 issues all materialise at the same time. A
faulty FPR, a suspect coolant sensor and settings, and then an increasingly failing spark...
Seeing as The car has driven 1/4mile under it’s own steam and ran for no more that 20minutes in 18 months, they haven’t lasted long.
Thank goodness!
Spark plugs are like women - might look good on the outside but in reality they are f****** useless!
It would have been overfuelling that killed the plugs.
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
It would have been overfuelling that killed the plugs.
When tasted all they did was emit a little puff of smoke.
I've done a bit of research and apparently modern fuels with the additives can degrade the ceramic and reduce the effectiveness of the insulator.
This shouldn't be a problem if fuelling is correct but apparently it's a known issue in the classic car world with modern fuels, modern
plugs but in an old engine with less than perfect fuelling set up.
Keep in mind this was Web based research I did so could be utter nonsense!
Well I’ve just been in the garage rebuilding bits back up. It now starts on the button first crank and runs DAF’s maps no problems. the exhaust even
smells of exhaust, not petrol.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Get those IVA forms in the post!
I’m on nights this week so I’ll get plenty of time sat/sun night to get them filled out and finished, theres plenty of reciepts to be photocopyed to go with it as well.