Does anyone on here know the correct proceedure for setting up the static timing on a ford kent crossflow engine and then the valve timing?? What I am refering to is the correct setting of the marks initially on cam and crank sprockets and then thre valve timing from there. I have the manual by Peter Wallage but it isnt clear and I have searched online but there are so many conflicting threads I am now confused. I'm sure it is simple to understand if explained in a logical step by step proceedure. I have initially lined up the marks on the sprockets so they face each other with the timing chain on. I think this is correct for the first stage? I have a vernier adjustable timing sprocket so am able to pretty much adjust it as I need to but when I follow the manual it says to set TDC then turn crank clockwise to specified degrees for camshaft and then set the inlet valve on no1 cylinder to TDC. But something doesnt seem right as the no1 piston is on it's downward stroke? I thought the inlet valve should start opening in no1 cylinder on the compression stroke, upwards? I've got myself totally confused now???
I have the engine bottom end built only so doing all the checks with a DTI on piston crowns and top of pushrods.

Can anyone explain this in laymans terms please?

Regards,
Andrew

The Burtonpower website covers cam timing in detail , you need a timing disc ,a fixed pointer and a dial gauge . You need to know the timing figures for the cam you are using

Hi Rusty Nuts,
Thanks for your response. I have everything set up as it states on the timing disc as got all the parts from Burtons. Bit something still seems wrong? Should the timing marks be facing each other and then follow the setting procedure or do they have to be turned 180' so that they are both at 10 o'clock?

Where did you find the instructions on the website, I have the instructions found on the timing disc but the engine could be 180' out if you see what I mean?

Regards,
Andrew

Their website has changed but the information is still there, go into menu , then tuning guides followed by technical information. . Have you got the cylinder head on or are you trying to set the cam timing with the head off? . Personally I would ignore any timing marks and make sure you have an accurate mark for TDC by using the DTI and timing gauge then follow the instructions on Burtons website . Make sure you use the timing figures for the cam you are using, as a very rough guide when no one cylinder is at TDC the valves on no 4 should be “ rocking “ that is exhaust closing and the inlet opening. If using a high lift cam especially with high compression pistons make sure you check the piston to valve clearances . Some including Burtons suggest using plastercine , I used thick soldering wire through the plug hole after fitting the head but only torquing the head down to about 20 lbs ft . Depending on valve lift you may?? need valve pockets machined in the pistons. A nice simple engine to tune

Hi,
Thanks, now I presume you are talking about looking from the front, that would be cylinder one and the last would be cylinder 4 or are you referring to the firing order of the cylinders? If looking from the front, no1 and no4 go up and down at the same time and then the two middle go up together.
I did indeed use plasticine on top of the pistons and dry runned it with the head on but not torquing it down much with standard gasket. On removal the plasticine measured approx 2.2mm think. I have a Felpro gasket which is 0.5mm thinner and it is closer to the bore size. Not sure which one to go for, I will have to dry run it again to be sure though. I'm using a BCF2 Camshaft which I dont think needs extra machining of the piston crowns so should be ok there. I have the head off at the moment.

I'll check the Burton website, thanks again.

Andrew

I have a BCF2 cam in my engine using 1300 pistons to increase the compression and don’t have any cutouts for the valves but I would always double check all cylinders . No 1 cylinder is at the timing chain end of the engine

Crossflows are very sensitive to valve timing in my experience, and I found it very difficult to set accurately enough. I failed to get it right every single time even with timing disc, vernier chain adjuster etc.)
I gave up and got mine done by a specialist.


Ignition timing is easier, but you need the camshaft set properly first

Good luck but you don't want to bend a valve trying.

Hi, yes that is why I want to get it right. At least right enough so I can drive it to a specialist to have set up on a rolling road.

You need to get it right as without partially dismantling the timing cover , crank pulley etc you can’t adjust the valvetiming even with a vernier set up although it is possible to modify the timing cover with a window and cover to gain access . Doing it that way would at least allow you to swing the timing but it would be a good idea to recheck the valve to piston clearance for the full amount of swing . Doubt it would be worth all the hassle over setting to Kent cams spec ?

Hey, that is exactly what I have already done with regards to the cover, it now has a nice removable plate. I think I've cracked it at last. I've just been out there setting it up and all looks good. I'm going to call it a day with that now and continue the rebuild. Getting cold out in the garage now!!

All the best,
Andrew.