Anyone know about the "A series" engine, what sort of BHP and weight can you run with them without going ott on costs.
Got the Vizard book coming but thought I would see what people had to say.
Mark

Depends on how much you rev it ---- and how much power you want and what base engine you use. My experience with the normal cooking 1275Gt engine was all bad -- they blew head gaskets, burn't valves and I saw more than a few with premature piston ring problems. In the Marina although the spec was similar. it was more reliable but still blew head gaskets.

The 1275 MG and Cooper S seem not to have head gasket problems to the same extent --- they use a different head with an extra stud which strangely was no where near where the gaskets blew.

The 998 and 1098 engines were much more reliable ---- the 1098 MG Midget engines are very strong.

The word in MG circles is If building an A series engines these days the trick is not go down the old tunning routes used in the 60s and 70s but to gety hold of an MG Metro engine A+ as the head carb an manifolds produce a nice powerfull reliable engine. The A plus head is apparently also less prone to gasket problems.

What are the differences between the A and A+?
Always fancied a metro turbo engine but they are getting harder to find these days.

The A+ is a stronger casting identifiable by extra ribbing on the outside of the block.

If the compression is kept below 10:1 there shouldn't be gasket probs.

A friend of mine rallies a mini with an A+ bored to 1380cc, Piper 286 cam, twin 1 1/2 SU's, stage 3 head and it's giving 90bhp at the wheels with no reliability issues at all. Happily spins to 7000rpm too !

A series had a bypass hose on the head which was a ballache if it went on the mini. The A+ has it built into the head. Biggest one I've actually seen was taken out to 1430cc and went like stink.

[Edited on 21/1/05 by Peteff]

When you start tuning A-series engines you also need to upgrade the Transfer gears (if keeping gearbox under engine) and the clutch. These will shred otherwise with predictable regularity.

I had a tuned Turbo motor pushing out over 100 horses in my Metro and got fed up of replacing clutches and transfer gears.
I never had any other problems with the engine, other than heatsoak. Biggest bugbear with tuning the turbo engine is it becomes very peaky. All the power came in a lump which is probably why it shreded clutches and transfers.
Make sure you go for the A+ as they are stronger. Make sure the case is good around the mains and thrust washer faces. These are commen wear points.

Terry

I know there is the bike engine option but is there any other high performance small fwd (pref gearbox under slung) unit that springs to anyones mind

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Originally posted by Lotusmark2
I know there is the bike engine option but is there any other high performance small fwd (pref gearbox under slung) unit that springs to anyones mind

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I am using a 1275 A series from a 69 ish midget, along with the transmission and radiator. And the steering rack. I am using a fast road cam and a 40 DCOE weber with mild head work and +.040 pistons. I am guessing about 90 flywheel horsepower. In the 60's the Series 2 L7 had the 998 A series with the twin 1.25 SU ( the L7 A (america). These engines are stout and pretty tune-able. All the stuff that fits the upper end of a mini will work. BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.

I think it is a good vintage choice of engine, but ya can't beat the ricer for reliability and hp/ci.


D.

[Edited on 22/1/05 by white130d]

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Originally posted by white130d
BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.

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Are you sure about that? I was under the impression that it could be done with Marina/Ital bits to convert it to longitudinal, but not sure.

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Peteff - 22/1/05 at 09:24 AM

It needs the crank from an inline engine so it's not really a viable proposition unless you have a Marina one lying around with a good crank and a knackered block. Unlikely as they are not exactly plentiful these days.

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MikeRJ - 22/1/05 at 11:11 AM

The Maestro/Montego had the 1275 A+ mated to a 5 speed box. I'm fairly sure this used the longitudinal crank rather than the transverse one with the taper for the flywheel.

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britishtrident - 22/1/05 at 11:54 AM

quote:

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Originally posted by white130d
I am using a 1275 A series from a 69 ish midget, along with the transmission and radiator. And the steering rack. I am using a fast road cam and a 40 DCOE weber with mild head work and +.040 pistons. I am guessing about 90 flywheel horsepower. In the 60's the Series 2 L7 had the 998 A series with the twin 1.25 SU ( the L7 A (america). These engines are stout and pretty tune-able. All the stuff that fits the upper end of a mini will work. BUT...a transverse engine (mini) will not work in an inline applicatiation an vce versa.

I think it is a good vintage choice of engine, but ya can't beat the ricer for reliability and hp/ci.

D.
[Edited on 22/1/05 by white130d]

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1275 ain't exactly reliable if revved and the BHP didn't set the heather on fire even in the 60s and 70s --- a full race 998cc Imp engine made about the same or more BHP as a full race 1293 S engine and was more reliable.
The trick with the 1275 is concentrate on what it is good at low and medium speed torque.

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MikeR - 22/1/05 at 03:25 PM

just to post some useless trivial........ the maestro / montego a+ gearbox was made by VW.................. and bl**dy nice it was too! It bolted on the end of the engine like most (all) modern cars now so i would guess the crank is "in line".

(dad had a maestro before you wonder)

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britishtrident - 22/1/05 at 05:09 PM

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Originally posted by MikeRJ
The Maestro/Montego had the 1275 A+ mated to a 5 speed box. I'm fairly sure this used the longitudinal crank rather than the transverse one with the taper for the flywheel.

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The Ital 1.3 was supposed to be an A+ but was only partly to A+ spec -- not sure of the exact differences.

The Mini/Metro engine can be converted to RWD with a change of crank and I seem to remember one of the main bearing caps.
Of course you also need all the other RWD bits.

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locogeoff - 23/1/05 at 11:07 PM

thanks for clearing up that one

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