I have been trying to put a 1.7 Puma Zetec SE engine in my anglia and whilst the project stalled (for various reasons) I have scored a 1.6 Zetec SE that comes with a Shawspeed SS4 cam and lightened flywheel and 190mm Ka clutch. I have also got hold of an Emerakd K6 ecu and finally as I want to keep the period look will be converting a pair of dhla40’s to throttle bodies by sleeving them with 40mm ID ally tube. The 1.6 is currently running stock injectors, inlet and throttle body on a chipped ford ecu for info. I will be connecting it to an rx8 6 speed box and can get a xflow 190mm clutch and add a spigot bearing. Finally I have a 4-2-1 exhaust (converted pinto one), 2.25” diameter (may be a bit big) and an lc2 wideband.

So a few Q’s that I am hoping the collective may be able to help with.

1) is there a kit about that resites the alternator to the exhaust side ?
2) has anyone found an alternative source for the HD rod bolts other than Shawspeed, I may as well put these in whilst I am changing the sump?
3) How Big a job is changing the valve springs to HD ones, can this be done without removing the front pulley etc. (suspect not, not a job I have done before)?
4) which is the better injection rail to use, 1.6 or 1.7 assuming they are a straight swap and will they flow enough for the tbs, exhaust and ss4?
5) does anyone have an emerald map for a similar engine that they are happy to pm me to get me started (if so what sort of power/torque will I expect) ?

Sorry for the long mail but best get all the questions out in one. Thanks in advance for responses.

When i get round to it I'm going to see how well grade 12.9 cap heads with hardened washers work. You'd have to use the existing bolts to align the big end cap then replace each one with a cap head in turn before fully tightening. Grade 12.9 is about 8% stronger than the standard bolts. I've bought the bolts and washers but haven't fitted them yet

Many thanks, do keep us posted. As mine is a road car I may just keep it to 7250rpm limit but will miss out on a few ponies at the top end with the ss4 cam. Just thought it would be easier to change then whist the engine is out and I change the sump over. Will see if Shawspeed have any of theirs in stock as a fall back.

Rather than start a new thread I will ask another questions on here -

Zetec SE coolant pipes -

Please can anyone confirm that I have this correct ?

For use without a heater

1) Small outlet on the thermostat housing on the block > manifold on the rear (using original hose with restricter in it)
2) Large outlet on the thermostat housing on the block > bottom of the radiator (using VW polo one) (hot feed)
3) Manifold on rear of engine > radiator top hose (cold feed)
4) small pipe on rear of engine to header tank
5) T in pipe 3) above to bottom of header tank

Things to confirm - are 2 and 3 the right way round and which pipe is the connection to the header tank in (assume 3 above)

With a heater (classic mini one) just put it in pipe 1, happy for it to flow through all the time rather than add a bypass valve.

Thanks in advance for comments/answers.