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Duratec cam fitting
snapper - 2/3/19 at 08:21 AM

Duratec standard cams are timed by using a TDC peg in the block and a flat bar across the rear of the cams.
So the question is when I buy uprated cams are they cut with the rear slots to give you the correct cam timing?
If this is the case can I use the standard cam sprockets with friction washers?
If I use the standard cam sprockets I was considering using Cosworth friction washers and possibly a keyway or dowels.
How are Duratec vernier pulleys secured to the cam?

flak monkey - 2/3/19 at 11:02 AM

You don't need vernier pulleys for the duratec they are just friction anyway... And yes the new cams should be timed right using the slots in the back, however I always check with a timing wheel.

snapper - 2/3/19 at 07:23 PM

Thanks Sera.
Do you keyway the crank?

flak monkey - 2/3/19 at 07:24 PM

Yes I did, especially as I was driving the blower off it.

peter030371 - 3/3/19 at 12:36 PM

My recent Kentcams came with adjustable pulleys. The cams have slots for timming but the instructions say to use the slots as a guide only and then to get the timing perfect use the adjustable pulleys. I haven't fitted them yet so can't comment on how true this may or may not be.

snapper - 4/3/19 at 08:44 AM

Excellent info, I may blow the Duratec in time

peter030371 - 4/3/19 at 08:55 AM

And another tip, when fitting the cam pulleys use a spanner on the cam to tighten against and do not rely on the bar in the slots which is just for location, the spanner fits the cam just after the second set of lobes (counting up from the pulley).

peter030371 - 4/3/19 at 02:06 PM

Noddy question...maybe Flak Monkey can answer. I have new cams to fit and was going to get a used head to refurb, build up and then swap over in the car once ready...however I have just read (and is makes sense looking at a few pictures on the interweb) that you have to remove the cams to get the headbolts out on a Duratec. Is that correct?

flak monkey - 4/3/19 at 03:36 PM

quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
Noddy question...maybe Flak Monkey can answer. I have new cams to fit and was going to get a used head to refurb, build up and then swap over in the car once ready...however I have just read (and is makes sense looking at a few pictures on the interweb) that you have to remove the cams to get the headbolts out on a Duratec. Is that correct?


Yes you do. It's not a big deal though

itsawindupuk - 6/3/19 at 12:54 PM

I fitted the Kent cams D35 cams to mine. I did not use a key way in the crank as I won’t be running much off the pulley and race line said there was no need either. The cams have 6 bolt holes for the verniers plus the centre bolt so that’s 7 bolts holding them on. I used a mild loctite too.
Ive not started the engine yet but I’m sure it’ll be fine.

andyhaase1 - 17/3/19 at 03:15 PM

Not intending to hijack this thread, but my crank pulley bolt came undone while on the dyno, so now I have stripped the engine again with the intention to drill the sprocket to pin it, but it’s too hard to drill, so I’m gonna have
to bite the bullet and get the crank machined and buy a keyed sprocket. SBD will do it but they are down south, can anyone recommend a machine shop up north (pref west yorks) that will key my crank.
Andy.