The clutch cable has snapped again on my car, this time I was lucky and have managed a repair ( otherwise a 600 mile trip via the AA) But I think the "packaging" of my car means a hydraulic clutch would be a better option.

So...million dollar question. What is the best one to fit? Ideally a OEM CSC which is a complete kit.
If it matters, the car is st170 with what I believe is a funnel flywheel, and pinto clutch. Using the Sierra STD clutch release bearing. Gearbox is 2.8 Capri with cut down input shaft to suit 4 cylinder cars.

Pointers would be most helpful.
Cheers
Clive
(In a spitfire, in what today looks like a sunny Scotland)

Wilwood make a pull cylinder which I (and others) used on a GTM but I have seen it used on a type 9 instead of a cable. I assume you can’t get a decent radius on the cable on your installation?

If you want an off the shelf kit:
https://www.rwdmotorsport.com/type-9-and-rocket-hydraulic-release-bearing-kit.html
http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/type-9-rocket-hydraulic-clutch-release-bearing-kit-bc002

If you can do the machining to make a base, this is just the csc bearing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-COUGAR-GALAXY-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-2-5-3-0-V6-PETROL-ENGINE-NEW/272703262615

Both require a .625" master cylinder with a 5.5-1 ratio pedal, other ratios will require different displacement cylinders to match.
With the bellhousing fitted, the distance from clutch fingers to gearbox face of bellhousing should be 15-17mm less than the distance from gearbox face to csc bearing face. This is allows 3-5mm extra travel to account for clutch wear, and 15-17mm finger movement.
The bleed needs to be fitted upright, a remote bleed pipe is likely to be needed unless you have access to the top of the bellhousing in the car.

Dave

That is very useful info, thank you.
Ideally want a genuine OEM csc, so shall keep an eye out for one.

Meanwhile the prop had failed. Well, one of the uj's, so being recovered via the AA. Bit slow.... Prop only 2years old/12k from D&F😥