Hi all,

newbie here with an xr3i with a 2.0 zetec E in it.

All started well and stripped a donor Mondeo taking out everything necessary. Using the guide on here I've linked up the ECU to try and get it running but to no avail.

Right now I have the fuel pump running no problem and I have the master key so no issue with PATS.

I can get the engine to crank but it doesn't seem to be sparking. I've double checked the timing and seems OK. I've plugged it in to proper diag kit and do get some codes but nothing that seems to suggest I'd have a spark issue. I also don't think it's fueling either oddly...

Codes im getting are;

P0443 evap (not connected)
P0135 02 malfunction
P1401 differential pressure (not connected)
P1409 EVR control malfuncton (not connected)
P1000 not all obd checks complete
P1116 coolant temp sensor out of range
P1650 power steering (not connected)
P1474 low fan control (not connected)
P1479 high fan control (not connected)

Sorry if it seems vague. Just really unsure what to try next...
Cheers, mark

I know you say you have the master key so the Pats is fine but. You don't say if you have the Led wired up and it's functioning as it should ?

0135 and 1116 will need sorting

Hi, cheers for the reply. I do have the LED wired up and it goes out just fine. Flashes as it should with the key removed. Hence I'm a little stumped. I figure the lambda had been knocked about between me moving house etc.

More wondering what could possibly stop it from sparking or what tests I could do to check that and the fueling problem

Ok let’s have some more details of your project.

The classic why the f##k won’t it start is the use of an engine from an automatic. The crank position sensor housing is differant and the sensor won’t reach the trigger wheel in the flywheel.

No crank signal = equals no fuel and spark.

This also happens if you have the wires in the cps the wrong way around.

Suppose I jumped the gun on this hoping for an easy answer (one can wish) ...So here's a little more detail.

The engine and ecu came from a manual car so not sure that would be an issue.

It's a silvertop, with a cvh fly wheel with the bolt holes drilled out, HO inlet and 4 branch black top manifold. Gearbox is from a Mk5 escort with the rear mounted starter. All the emissions faf is removed. I found a donor 1.8 so it's also got the 1.8 sump, pick up and pulley from that on on a new water pump. Also got a new cambelt (double checked the timing)

When plugged into the diagnostics I do get a crank speed etc and other signals. It also reads TPS and temperatures OK but to be honest I'm not 100% sure on what to look for. Electrics really isn't my strong point...

CVH flywheel is your problem perhaps? No reference marks for the sensor to pick up on?

[Edited on 7/6/19 by rusty nuts]
http://www.xrtwo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=105070#p1118382

[Edited on 7/6/19 by rusty nuts]

There is on the efi cvh Rusty.

Only made for 1 year, 1990/91 only on the 1.6 from memory. 1.8 was on the trigger wheel. Not sure about the 1.4.

You just drill the bolts out 1mm.

The Sierra cfi is ultra chunky that leaves the xr3i and Rs turbo so they are rare

Back to the job in hand.

Are you running it like a stand alone ecu or have you fully wired it into the car ?

Is it a mk3 4 5 Escort ?

Just trying to run it like a stand alone at the minute. Although I do have the wires linked up to the ignition switch perm and switched. Got the correct relay to the starter which seems to be working as the ECU os the ground for the starter relay and it lets it kick over. The car is a MK4 escort.

To be honest I keep wondering if it's a grounding issue. I do know that a bad connection can make a sub amp look like it's working but then won't produce power.

quote:

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Originally posted by big_wasa
There is on the efi cvh Rusty.

Only made for 1 year, 1990/91 only on the 1.6 from memory. 1.8 was on the trigger wheel. Not sure about the 1.4.

You just drill the bolts out 1mm.

The Sierra cfi is ultra chunky that leaves the xr3i and Rs turbo so they are rare

---

Ok I hadn’t seen the link and he did say he was getting a cranking signal.

Pre pats ecu’s still had an early form of Immobilizer by the body control unit cutting the earth path to some parts.

Just for testing I would isolate the power and earth supply’s. Connecting them direct to the battery but still run the power through a few fuses. Just a few crimps on to a blade fuse will be fine for testing.

Another obvious but easily over looked one is the engine earth strap. Should be fine if the engine is cranking but it Wouldn’t hurt to stick a jump lead from the lifting eye to the battery earth.

Again I’ve seen voltage drops from nearly dead battery’s that will stop it from starting but will just about crank.

Where in the world are you ?

the original post states “ it doesn’t seem to be sparking” How have you checked for a spark?
Zetec engines don’t like dirty spark plugs ,there’s been a few cases on here where a new set has cured starting problems
CTS fault can and will cause problems ,possibly wetting plugs . Will also cause lambda sensor fault?

quote:

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Originally posted by big_wasa
Ok I hadn’t seen the link and he did say he was getting a cranking signal.

---

Just to add to the above on plugs, I’ve even seen flooding kill a set of Zetec plugs.

First off, cheers for all the replies guys appreciate the help and ideas so far.

So the fly wheel is from an EFi engine which means the car already had the fuel pump fitted. Again, when the key is turned I can hear the pump priming and am 100% getting fuel pressure as I found out when I hadn't fully tightened a fuel clip (silly mistake)

So the main earth is connected directly from the head to the battery so I'd assume a good connection. Unfortunately I had also tried adding a jumper cable from the block to the battery too but no difference.

To check the sparks I've simply removed them and held them against the cam cover and didn't see anything when cranking.

I think now you guys may also see why I'm asking for help lol.

As before though I'm not sure it's fueling either. I have inspected the plugs and found plug for cyl 3 looked wet but the other 3 were bone dry.

Car is based on Beckenham south London FYI.

Ok your to far away for me to have a butchers.

So the pats is happy.
The pump primes.
The engine cranks
Your getting a cranking signal.

But no start, no spark.

Are the injectors firing ? Are the plugs wet ?

Things I am asking may sound stupid but with out it in front of me I can’t see what you see.

Only 1 plug seems to be wet, cylinder 3. Unsure why only the one to be honest

Hence why I'm asking on here, I'm pretty damn stumped.

All I'm wondering is if anyone has an Owls ECU running their setup maybe they could just plug mine in and see if it works for them. Then at least I'd know it's something I've done wrong and rules a duff ECU out.

I can’t help with the ecu as I’ve moved on to a Zetec turbo on Frs management and a rwd St220 on Oem management.

I am currently making the Zt rwd.

If your is currently stand alone and you can stick it in a box I would have a look over your wiring. Also yourtemp sensor out of range if not connected will show a temperature of -40 deg. This would alter the timing.

Ok, thanks for the kind offer but have recently just bought an emerald k3 to get things going. The plan was always to throw some R1 TBs on anyway.

So the owls, loom, key etc will be up for sale shortly. I also have many other random bits for sale from the donor car and a spare 1.8 zetecE as well as the original cvh efi engine etc if anyone is interested. Unfortunately I can't post in the for sale as I'm still too new.

Throttle bodies and Oem management has been done before and with good results. I do accept not every one likes or enjoys wiring things up.

Oem is no harder than an unterminated Emerald, there is just a bit more of it.

It may be of interest on the rwd Zetec page on Facebook.