Hi,

I am trying to get a fireblade 919 (1998) started, or at least turning over.

This is my first time on motorbike engines, so a slight learning curve. I have never even ridden one either!!!

I have the engine semi mounted in the car, and just trying to make sure it turns over before committing to everything else.

The engine can complete, but was missing a few things, like the starter switch and ignition barrel, which following the haynes manual I believe I have wired in correctly.

The original dash comes on when the ignition is turned on, neutral light and oil light comes one etc.

When move the switch to on to then press the start button I just get clicking sound; is this normal? I am not hearing the engine turn over for example. Assuming this might be a starter motor issue (not investigated yet)

I am not trying to put fuel through it, as the original bike didn't have a fuel pump, so need to wire one in. All I am trying to do is see if it is worth continuing with this engine, as I have had it for a couple of years dry stored.

Is there any basic that I need to check?

The bike has a sidestand switch and clutch switch, these have nothing connected to them; would these prevent the engine from starting?

Does anyone have a fireblade with a fuel pump relay and able to give me the colour wires to the original plug connector, as I am unable to find an internal wiring diagram of the relay anywhere.

Sorry for any stupid questions, just trying to learn

quote:

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Originally posted by m8kwr
...Is there any basic that I need to check?

The bike has a sidestand switch and clutch switch, these have nothing connected to them; would these prevent the engine from starting?...

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I can't see a tilt switch in the wiring

The only 2 I can see are the clutch switch, and I have no clutch fitted as of yet; and the sidestand switch.

Link to Wiring Diagram

[Edited on 26/1/20 by m8kwr]

Your clicking sound can often be the starter solenoid activating but the battery not having enough beans to turn the engine over. Check the most simple things first

quote:

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Originally posted by m8kwr
I can't see a tilt switch in the wiring

The only 2 I can see are the clutch switch, and I have no clutch fitted as of yet; and the sidestand switch.

Link to Wiring Diagram

[Edited on 26/1/20 by m8kwr]

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Thanks for the replies

Battery is brand new, so hopefully has enough juice.

I will short the clutch and side stand and see what happens

Have you put a resistor in the pink ignition switch wire? From memory it should be 380 ohms. It was part of the Honda ignition barrel and acts as a anti hotwire device

I have got an original fireblade ignition with key. So assume that would be ok. But will check it all.

If it's clicking but not turning, do you know if the engine will even physically turn? Have you removed plugs to remove compression? Can you turn it over by removing the crankshaft hole cap and turning the crankshaft over with a socket?

My memory isn’t up to much but I’m sure that these just needed, like, 5-wires to run...?

I have a pdf of the Honda workshop manual (for my 96 blade with a 98 engine in it).

Came in very useful - PM me if you want a copy!

Thanks for the offer. I do have the Haynes manual.

Going to try and find sometime this week to see what is going on.

Appreciate all the advise so far. Fingers are crossed it will turn over then can proceed with this 4 year project

If you look in my pictures, I have uploaded a wiring diagram, which Andy Bates kindly did for me. I cant remember how to upload a picture on the post...

Its actually pretty basic.

The early blade Ecu did not have a pink wire for the voltage control as this was added later as a security measure. If you do have the pink wire you will need a 280 ohm resistor for the bike to run.

Hi

I joined the sidestand and clutch switch last night and the engine seemed to sound better. Further investigation there was no spark.

When I brought the engine it was missing some bits like ignition, which just connected into the loom.

Further head scratching it turn out I have a pink wire going to the cdi unit. Which needs a Zener diode to reduce the voltage.

Reading some bike forums it said it reduces down to 9v. I wired in 9v battery which didn’t work. I have ordered some 0.5w 3.9v diodes and try those. But might order a resistors as well.

If that still doesn’t work does anyone know of what voltage I should be getting at the coil or any multi meter tests I can do to prove things in the look are working before I start changing coils and things.

I was thinking would it be possible to try and get rid of this pink wire and put an earlier cdi unit in. But then I am unsure if the connector is the same and might cause me more issues with loom!

Feel I am getting closer and that the engine isn’t just scrap!