I am getting closer to actually having to start real engine work on the 2.0L Duratec from a Fiesta ST.
I know little about Duratec as I spent most of my building Pinto’s.
What I know...
You shouldn’t skim the head
You can only over bore the liners by 0.5mm
The rods and pistons are marginal above 200bhp (assume 8000rpm)
It’s prudent to key the crank
No. 4 main is the first one to be starved of oil and therefore is usually the one that gives up first.
That’s it, tell me more please.
The Conrods are fracture rods, so if you split them, you should really replace them.
Many people say don’t take std rods and pistons above 7250. I pushed my luck and ran mine to 7500. I don’t think they can take 8000.
[Edited on 8/3/20 by RussH]
quote:
Originally posted by RussH
The Conrods are fracture rods, so if you split them, you should really replace them.
Many people say don’t take std rods and pistons above 7250. I pushed my luck and ran mine to 7500. I don’t think they can take 8000.
[Edited on 8/3/20 by RussH]
it's also a pretty good engine to just bolt together, if you're replacing like for like bearings, etc. If you do split the rod big ends, be
sure you put them back in exactly the same orientation - as russH said -they're fractured, not machined.
You'll need a gated sump as well - you're changing orientation. I built one of Flak's and they're a great design.
quote:
I have the ford assembly manual for the engine somewhere if you want it.
The ford manual is here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1--XKLmbB5YBgtbPSO3cIfxuBpCRLENiH
I'd recommend forged rods and pistons if you are going forced induction...
The 2.3 pistons are the same bore size, it's the crank stroke and rod length which is different between the 2 engines.