[Edited on 19/10/22 by big_wasa]
I just wondered what your opinions are? I don't have access to a machine to bead tube and although one can buy lengths of aluminium tube with
beaded ends they are not necessarily the right length for the application. My worry is that if the tube isn't beaded the hose could come off when
under pressure.
I have seen a Mole grip modified to press an indentation into a tube and here's the question. Would one indentation or the opposite really an
upwards indentation be sufficient to retain the hose? I would have thought it would.
Opinions please.
I modified some mole grips with ball bearing on one jaw and a nut on other jaw, then clamped it around the circumference quite a few times to make a
bead, seemed to work OK and my hoses have not popped off in 15,000 miles.
Had to squeeze very hard and the ali pipes are quite thin wall though, actually started life as an original external bag type hoover extension
section. very Locost indeed.
With the skills you have you can cobble one together in no time.
[Edited on 19/10/22 by big_wasa]
The builder of my Locost drilled a couple of holes in the ali tube and put pop rivets through. It does give a small impediment to flow through the joiner but does also create a bump on the outside that seems to be doing the job of preventing the hoses slipping off. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but it seems to be working.
John
Might be worth contacting Think Automotive to see if they can make up a beaded tube to the correct length for you: https://www.thinkauto.com/
Have you checked out the Aeroflow tools in 3/8”, 1/2” and 5/16” sizes for approx £30: https://www.b-gdirect.com/hose-and-fitting-tools (or the Earls
version, but not sure on price: https://www.earls.co.uk/earls/accessories/tools/beadingtools.html ) as this seems more affordable than the lovely
looking wheeled beading machines such as: https://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=beading%20tool&PN=Pipe%2DBeading%2DTool%2Ehtml#aPBT1 or
https://www.motamec.com/motamec-water-hose-tube-pipe-bumping-beading-tool-for-16mm-and-larger-hoses-bead.html or
https://www.serckmotorsport.co.uk/product/aeroflow-af98-2017-pipe-beading-tool-large-bore/ or
https://www.t7design.co.uk/t7design-aluminium-tube-swaging-beading-beader-tool-bb9-0e7-e29.html Or one used by aircraft mechanics:
https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/Z02SN9NKL
Bet you could make a suitable tool!
Cheers
Mike
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Hi John - I modified a pair of pipe grips (pliers) with an exhaust clamp and a creative bit of weld. It worked perfectly yo make a bead in radiator tube, don't have aphoto at the moment but if you find the idea interesting I'll take one and post it. I am soon to use it again with my latest car project using MX5 Mk 2 1.6 engine and Henry vacumn tubes for the pipe work
I was lucky enough to be given a beading tool similar to the one Big Wasa illustrated, however I have passed it on to another member on here.
They may see this and offer it on.
I would be tempted to get some thin Ali bar, make a Hoop and then braze it in place using one of those Ali "welding" kits. Or just jb weld. Nice fillet on the tube end side, less on the inner aspect (to create a more abrupt transition to further reduce slippage risk).
Hi
Oyster pliers are what's normally used (BES flog them I think..) they insert a dimple into the ally, and you just continue round the tube and
get the bead you need.
HTH
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Hi
Oyster pliers are what's normally used (BES flog them I think..) they insert a dimple into the ally, and you just continue round the tube and get the bead you need.
HTH
Could you not run a cold tig bead around each end?
Some great ideas you've put forward and I'm very grateful to you all for taking the time to reply. I have a feeling that just one bump would be sufficient to stop the pipe from blowing off because it wouldn't be able to slip past the clip.
As The Shed said, as a man with a TIG welder, three short stitches around the pipe will do an ample job
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
I was lucky enough to be given a beading tool similar to the one Big Wasa illustrated, however I have passed it on to another member on here.
They may see this and offer it on.
Pete Clayton was also looking to use it if either of them show up.
quote:
Originally posted by John Bonnett
Some great ideas you've put forward and I'm very grateful to you all for taking the time to reply. I have a feeling that just one bump would be sufficient to stop the pipe from blowing off because it wouldn't be able to slip past the clip.
as mentioned above, i made my own joiners from 32mm aluminium aerial mast from B&Q with a couple of pop rivets in each end - no problems in 3 years.
All too complex - get something conical and hard and smack it down onto it, flaring the ends little. Does the same job.
I used hairspray on non welded/ beaded tube when working on the single seater Roadrunner racing SR1. Coat the outside of the ali tube with hairspray and attach the silicone pipe, clamp it down and let it dry for a few mins
Hi John
I have a couple of these http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_17_157
What size pipe are you using? I have one for 1" 1/4 32mm tube and one for 5/8" 15mm tube
You are welcome to borrow them .
quote:
Originally posted by rdodger
Hi John
I have a couple of these http://www.earls.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_17_157
What size pipe are you using? I have one for 1" 1/4 32mm tube and one for 5/8" 15mm tube
You are welcome to borrow them .
For putting a bead on my coolant pipes, I ended up buying a pair of these Dennett crimping pliers…
Pliers
Description
Cutting the tip of them off…
Description
And after a bit of filing to smooth the edges off on the crimp surfaces it gave a decent bead for not a lot of outlay.
Description
Thanks
Bob
[Edited on 21/10/22 by bccox18]