Hi,

I'm new to the list but wonder if someone can help.

After at least 7 years of having been idle I managed to get my
absolutely standard 1300 crossflow started last weekend - fantastic.
My problem is it starts easily but will only keep running at high
revs with the choke almost shut. I am using a Subaru electric fuel
pump, the carb is the original single choke 'tamperproof' item. I
have to date put on new points, new rotor arm, new ignition leads and
set the timing statically. I have also removed and cleaned the carb
which seemed remarkably clean and without wear. As I mentioned in a
previous post the copper nipple on the vacuum advance seems to wiggle
slightly so I have araldited it in place to get a proper seal.

My intention is to use this engive to get through SVA then progress
to something else so I am simply trying to get it to run OK without
spending too much

Before I replace anything else does anyone have any thoughts as to my
best course of action.

Regards,

Tony

Is the pump working? Revving high with the choke on will suck fuel through without too much effort from the pump. Had a similar problem with a Polo with a split diaphragm.

[Edited on 4/2/05 by Peteff]

Could the pump be delivering too high a pressure and causing the engine to flood? Im building a Pinto and have been told to use mechanical pump as the electric ones are too powerful for standard carbs, or fit electric with regulator to slow it down (expensive option). Is the Subaru pump from an injected car, i have been led to believe it will be too powerful.

You say it will only run with choke closed (off) and some revs on. I assume it wont tick-over with choke on or off. What is it like once warmed up (ie so it doesnt need choke)?

Thanks for the rapid replies.

The fuel pump is a push type pump from a carb version of the classic horizontally opposed 4 cylinder Subarus. You can hear it clicking when first turned on then it slowly reduces in speed as you would expect although it never stops even if the engine is off.

Regarding the choke - what I mean is that it starts with the choke applied as normal for starting (ei. butterfly valve closed - letting in less air). The carb is designed to automatically apply some accelerator in this position so the engine runs at very high revs. If you leave it to run in this position it progressivly becomes more and more lumpy. If you try and take the choke off (normal running postion) it slows and dies immediately.

Regards,

Tony

PS. I switched to the electric pump because the mechanical one gets in the way of the stearing shaft.

Sounds to me like a blocked idle jet , carb would draw fuel only through the idle jet when throttle is closed. could possibly be retarded ignition timing . Check and adjust. Check for induction system air leak, try spraying WD40 around inlet manifols to head connection and also around carb flange / throttle spindle, engine revs will rise if air leak is detected,Also tight valve clearances{tappets} will cause lean running symptons . Hope this helps. Rusty

I agree choke idle jet (aka slow running jet) if twin choke carb you wll have two of them

sounds like slow running jet. Have u the air box or filter on?? I tried to fire my 1300xflow up it wouldnt run till i put the air box on due to to much air getting through.

Just a thought , have you tried tweaking the mixture screw? if you have it too far in this will cause the engine tocut out. Try screwing it in fully then out about 2 turns , with the engine warmed up adjust the screw in or out to give the highest idle speed . If this fails check out items already suggested.

Thanks for all your replies.

The solution as many of you implied was an air leak.

(Bear in mind that I am not familiar with the crossflow and didn't remove this engine frm the donor). When I started the engine I did not take any notice of two pipes (a Y shaped connector) on the outer surface of the inlet manifold. One had a FOMCO plug over the end the other was open. After a number of hours scratching my head and removing the crab twice to clean it I put my finger over the the end of the open hole and the engine instantly ran smoothly and idled. Can anyone tell me what these openings are for?

Another question comes to mind, have the Fiesta electic fan thermostatic switch fitted to my Locost. Does anyone know if this is supposed to run via a solenoid or can it be wired direct to the fan?

Regards,

Tony

PS. Nothing beats the sensation of seeing this machine come to life!

If it's the y-piece I'm thinking of (right in the middle, under the carb) then one hole is for the oil breather (via a PCV gizmo on the side of the block) and the other's probably for the brake servo.
As I don't have a servo I replaced this thing with a single port one, only for the oil breather.
As for the rad fan - if in doubt, fit a relay (a search on recent topics will give more info).

David

Yes, it is the 'Y' piece just under the carb. and I wondered where the breather was supposed to connect to. My breather is a metal thing that fits down into a hole and has a single bolt holding it in place. Into the top is push fitted a sort of one-way valve from which I currently have a small piece of tubing fitted going nowehere. I will try connecting it to the 'Y' thingy'. My donor didn't have servo'ed brakes but has a lastic blanking plug on the other half of the 'Y' so I think I will leave well enough alone.

Thanks again for you help.

Tony

Some x flow engines had an anti run on valve that allowed air into the inlet manifold via a solonoid operated valve that opened when ignition wasturned of I.I.R.C it was connected via a y piece attached to manifold