Got a 1300 x-flow from a mk2 escort ghia, though I don't think the block is origional.

1 How can you tell if its converted to unleaded fuel?

2 Is it just the valve seats that need changing?

3 Can this be done at home or is specialist equipment nessicery?

4 If i can't do the job my self, who in the west midlands would you recomend for converting x-flows?

burton are the boys to help ya on this matter

1. You can tell if the valve seats are different to the material in the rest of the head. These would be hardened seats.

2.Yes

3. Specialist equipment

4. as per mango... burton although expensive have a good reputation.

cheers
Mark

All IMHO but,

Is the engine a runner now ?

If so a tank full of leaded every 10 or so and forget it, it will be fine.

Worst that can happen, years down the road you may have to do the work your thinking about now, if and when you do have bigger valves and new seats fitted at the same time.

Thats the way I would play it.

Get some Millers lead and octane booster. Makes it go better as well as curing the lead problem.

I agree with Pete, although I've found the Wynns lead substitute and octane booster works well too.
A friend is trialling one of those fuel cat things, we'll see but I'm not convinced.

Marcus

A mate of mine did 40k miles in his leaded landrover, on unleaded fuel, and with no addatives.

If you do this you will get valve seat regression (wear on the exhaust valve and seat.)
However, It may clap the valves and seats out in 2 months or it may take 2 years depending on the mileage, type of useage, fuel etc etc.

I would run it on unleaded, and WHEN you get a problem with the wear on the valves and seats... then do the work you are proposing.
This way you dont spend all your cash unnecessarily.
You can save up, and do it later.

Other tip is: Keep to the SAME addative if you use any. Some are Maganese based and some are potassium based.
Once you start using it, you will need to keep using it, as the lead will wash off.
Or you can stick some 4 star (leaded fuel) in every few tank fulls... but then you are back to where I started!.

I would do nothing, until you need to.

The old adage.... If it aint broke, dont fix it.


Its only a matter of time before it will have to be done... but not necessarily now!.

Thanks for all the advice.
Build 'n' drive now, repaire later sounds the most likely.

Surely if you just harden the valve seats, won't this increase the rate of valve wear?

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Surely if you just harden the valve seats, won't this increase the rate of valve wear?

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cost me £110 to have the head converted to lead free--local machine shop in swansea.
Also the cost for the rebore , pistons etc was way below some of the prices quoted on this site ---check out a local machinist in the first instance

Burtons are great , but maybe cater for something a little greater that the average locoster needs .

Look at it this way.

£110 to do job. 20p per gallon diff between u/l and l = 550 gallons x 30mpg = 16500 miles / 3000 miles a year = 5 1/2 years.

ATB

Simon

I was planning to get my head done, there is a local machine shop my mate recommended, he had his head skimmed there and his work (Prodrive) have their engine work done there, they quoted me £100 (if the head was stripped) and if its good enough for Prodrive im sure its good enough for me!!

But after reading this thread i might leave it for a while, it will just delay the build, and the the amount of use the car will have, i think additives will do. There is a petrol station near me that does unleaded, i will probably treat it to tank every so often, but at £1.10 a litre not so often!

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Originally posted by Simon
Look at it this way.

£110 to do job. 20p per gallon diff between u/l and l = 550 gallons x 30mpg = 16500 miles / 3000 miles a year = 5 1/2 years.

ATB

Simon

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