I need to connect a hose from the engine block to a hose from the bottom of the radiator. I've used two right angle hoses with an internal
diamater of about 34mm.
Any thoughts on how to do this? Somebody recommended the white plastic waste pipes you use in sink plumbing, which is the ideal size. Is this likely
to withstand the temperature of the water?
Thanks,
Tim
I don't know for sure but I certainly wouldn't risk waste pipe with water over 100°C!
I've used some stainless tubing I aquired (with 'lumps' welded on the ends to act as a stop for the hose clip). But others have used
copper heating pipe.
Hope that helps,
James
car builder solutions www.nfauto.co.uk will sell you aluminium tube of 32mm diameter (and other popular hose size) with rolled ends specially for
joining hoses. They even offer a service of welding different sized pipes to give you T joints etc at quite reasonable prices.
You'll need hose clips to fasten together.
At the weekend I went to B&Q and bought some 28mm central heating pipe and fittings. Cheap and cheerful and will cope with hot water!
[Edited on 8-8-2005 by smart51]
My local metal supermarket did me a 2 foot length of aluminum tube, 32mm OD, for about 8 quid, which works nicely as hose joiner. They had most
diameters in stock, and compared to "real" joiners was as cheap as chips.
Only problem is there will be no rolled lip on the ends, but I figured I'd just make the joiners longer than usual to reduce the chance of a hose
blowing off.
Cheers
Richard
Waste pipe works -- the thick white stuff also used for overflows --- I bought an Autocross Imp years back that used it for front rad plumbing however
it looks really naff. Steel exhaust Mini pipe also works but you have to paint inside sides.
OR
Go to any scrappies and lift the bonnet of a Rover 214/414 or 820 or 620Ti--- has to be a car with a puka Rover engine not a Honda lump, you will
find they have steel tubes for joining hoses. The ones on some models even have fittings for bleed tubes.
quote:
Originally posted by SixedUp
Only problem is there will be no rolled lip on the ends, but I figured I'd just make the joiners longer than usual to reduce the chance of a hose blowing off.
i used the blobs of weld approach.
You can get a little tool to roll the bead into pipes for this purpose, probably not very "locost" though.
Didn't someone once post how he had made a tool from an old pair of mole grips? Can't remember who though
B&Q do lengths of aerial mast, which is aluminium tube, some of them are reasonable diameter, and not expensive
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Didn't someone once post how he had made a tool from an old pair of mole grips? Can't remember who though
Don't actuall need rolled ends --- lots of production cars don't have them. I have never seen a hose blown off by pressure although I have seen one pulled off by completely knackered engine mounts.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Don't actuall need rolled ends --- lots of production cars don't have them. I have never seen a hose blown off by pressure although I have seen one pulled off by completely knackered engine mounts.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Don't actuall need rolled ends --- lots of production cars don't have them. I have never seen a hose blown off by pressure although I have seen one pulled off by completely knackered engine mounts.
I will concur with Britishtrident on this one.
I have many hose joiners on various vehicles made with stainless pipe with plain ends and none have blown off, even when pressure with a solid sealed
rad cap burst a hose.
I have also used these on a turbo cosworth engine with 35psi of boost and had so problem whatsoever.
As long as the hose is cleaned first and so is the joiner, and everything is in good condition it will be fine.
A tip for joining secondhand rubber rad hoses is to cut to length and then clean the ends with a rag with WD40 on it. Clean the inside and outside of
the ends. The WD40 softens the rubber slightly and it then grips and seals perfectly every time.
These guys do hose jointing tube - with beading
CBS - near the bottom under 'Aluminium tubing'