Since I'm doing a bike engine in mine I haven't this problem, but I've always wondered how you get over all the incompatibility of all the different parts you must need.

Mark

You can get an adapter plate - basically a ring that has the bolt pattern of the bellhousing on one side, and the engine on the other. Some kits then have a modified flywheel to mate the clutch up to the input shaft - others supply a longer input shaft to change in the box. Flywheel or input shaft need to be thicker/longer by the same thicjness of the adapter plate. I put an alfa 33 engine onto a vw box this way.
Rob

...............................or (and it's often easier to do this way) you can make an adaptor that goes between the bellhousing and the gearbox casing, usually only 4 bolts, and both usually have a concentric circle conveniently on them to find the centres from.

I have an Opel CIH engine to Ford Type 9 gearbox adpator that is like this. It is an inch thick alloy plate, drilled and helicoiled so that it bolts onto the old CIH (to Opel 4 spd box) bellhousing, then drilled and helicoiled the other side so that the Ford box bolts on that side. You set the thickness of the ally plate to give the right end clearance for the input shaft.

Obviously you need in all cases, a substitute gearbox with a longer input shaft than the one that came off! Ford were handy there by giving two different input shaft lengths on the type 9!

Thanks gents. So the join between the different engine/box is between the flywheel and clutch? If you get what I'm saying.

Mark

the flywheel/clutch is the effective joining of the transmission (ie input shaft) to the engine, but of course you have the bellhousing at either the engine or gearbox end to adapt as mentioned above

Ned.

The pictures in this thread may help you understand

Cheers

Fred W B http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=27337

I think there is a feature on gearbox adaptor plates in next month's PPC.