Now the questions begin, sorry there is so many (I put them all in one place to save time)

Basically first step is to identify the origin of components.
I have a V5 for a 1980 1593 cc Capri L.

1. The Taxation Class on V5 is listed as disabled. Does that mean it is scrapped? So I would not get an age related plate?
Now it is likely the car was scrapped before the SORN rules - seems the build started around 1992 - so the rules may have been different then, annyone know if I will get age related plate since I think everying else - gearbox, front hubs, axle are from the donor?

2. The engine does not match any of those in the Haynes Capri manual and does not match that on the V5. Does anyone recognise it from the photos?
Engine number is: 711M 6015 AA - does that identify it and which car it came out of? Any info. lie cc and CR would be useful.

engine, exhaust side

engine, carb side

3. Rear back plate seems to match Capri, anyone confrim this? Any other Fords that are identical to it? (I am missing one side)

Description

3. The steering rack arm is bent - is it safe to straighten it by bending it in a vice?

bent steering arm

4. The front hubs and disc brakes seem to match Capri, anyone confirm that?

front upright

5. The brake pipe is bent in a tight bend over the frame - stupid really since there is no reason why the hole for the brake hose could not have been put in front of the frame upright instead of behind - is that safe?

tight front brake pipe angle

6. Similarly a tight bend from the brake master cylinder - is that ok?

tight m/cylinder brake pipe

7. As someone pointed out, the wishbones should be parallel to the ground; if they were the nose would be a bit higher up.
Looking at the shocks they don't seem to have been wound. Would winding them up i.e. compressing the spring lift the nose up or have the wrong length shocks been fitted? (Not easy for me to try since I don't have the C spanner and need to remove nose cone).

shocks

8. There is a bulge in the bonnet to cover the carbs that I would lie to remove to sit the air filters in free air. Are the any SVA rules to prevent this?
Would I need to put some trim around the hole to unsharpen the edges?

9. There is a scoop fitted to the bonnet too - not sure of the purpose, maybe to let in cold air to cool the exhaust. Filler seems to have been used to smooth down the dges and it has cracked - no surprise. What would be a better medium to use? Ideally I would like to MIG weld an ali scoop or if that fails using rivets. I know there is some rule about sharp edges here, can someone remind me what that is. Or maybe fit a
louvered panel. I would like to use all ail parts as I don't want to paint the bonnet. Fishing for ideas here.....

bonnet bulges, ooh err missus

10. The rear exhasut support seems to shake a lot and I would imagine over time the ali side panel will tear. I plan to fit, probably by welding, an L shaped bracket to the bottom frame rail, drill through the vertical side so that there is more support - good idea? What have other folks done?

rear exhaust support

more q. in part II; photos for these did not appear.

To make it easier, just list the question number and your response and I'll take it from there. Thanks a lot.

[Edited on 3/12/05 by 02GF74]

1. Not sure.

2. Its a cross flow engine most definately. Cant remember how to identify them though!

3 i. Probably Capri, but could equally be escort or cortina.

3 ii. Not you cant bend the track rod back. I had the same problem on the rack I got and was advised to get a new one... which is indeed the correct advice!

4. Front hubs are Mk3, 4 or 5 cortina.

5 and 6. As long as the pipe isnt kinked it will be fine

7. Compressing the springs will raise the nose

Thats about it from me anyway.

David

1_ you have to inform the DVLA and they will send out new documentation - disabled means no tax, not declaring it is bound to be an offence.

2 crossflow - if no one else pops up, remind me and i'll check the bible (Wallage) and see if you can get capacity it from some of the engine numbers.

3 if its already bent its been weakend. you could bend it, just like you could (insert seemingly good idea but actually not here). get a new one - costs about 30 quid. 80 quid from rally design gets you a quick rack

4 agreed - capri disks and calipers are interchangable between cortina and capri

5 & 6 agree

7 agree, c spanners can be had for less than 10 pounds. The shocks look like spax which aren't well regarded by the westfield lot - but if they work, they work! depends what you want the car for.

remembered, the 1600 engine is 1" taller in the block than the 1300 engine. Of course i haven't a clue how tall the block is - boy am i helpful this morning

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeR

3 if its already bent its been weakend. you could bend it, just like you could (insert seemingly good idea but actually not here). get a new one - costs about 30 quid. 80 quid from rally design gets you a quick rack

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rack - most likely a mk2 escort .......

2. The engine number quoted is the block casting number, not engine number, 6015AA is 1300cc . BA is 1600cc.
There is about 20mm of cylinder block casting above the water pump on a 1600 block , a 1300 is nearly flush with top of pump casting.
The actual engine number is stamped on a flat cast onto the top right hand side of the block looking from in front just behind the thermostat housing .
Paul.

i tell you, if you could put all the knowledge in locostbuilders into one persons head ..........

they'd have a brain the size of a planet and be reduced to parking cars at a restaurant

quote:

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Originally posted by MikeR
i tell you, if you could put all the knowledge in locostbuilders into one persons head ..........

they'd have a brain the size of a planet and be reduced to parking cars at a restaurant

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According to this link http://lotus-cortina.com/library/block/blocks.htm the 711m6015 block is a 1600 block although this contradicts an earlier post. I don't know what the AA stands for though so hopefully someone else will have the full Kent engine code decoder

Just checked in the Burton power catalog and it quotes " Look at the casting marks 1.3 is 711m 6015 AA 1.6 is 711m 6015 BA."
I think in the link posted they were talking of 711 M 1500 and 1600 blocks in general and didnt mention the smaller 1300 AA blocks.
The definite check is the distance from the top of the water pump to head gasket joint.
Paul.

quote:

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Originally posted by omega 24 v6
According to this link http://lotus-cortina.com/library/block/blocks.htm the 711m6015 block is a 1600 block although this contradicts an earlier post. I don't know what the AA stands for though so hopefully someone else will have the full Kent engine code decoder

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