Hi, I've gone and bought myself a kenlowe fan for my series 3 land rover...just wanted to know if anyone had any idea how to remove the old viscous fan?? I've got an incling that you need a special tool..is this correct?? Also anyone tell me if I've done the right thing by buying one in the first place....(it's a 13" Kenlowe one looks in good nick and I got it for £35 so thought it was worth a go!)

Also on the topic of landy's:
She's finding it a bit tough starting at the moment. Its a 2.5 non turbo diesel and I've checked and re-checked the glow plugs and their fine. I think the reason is that the fuel is leaking back to the tank somehow so that it has to bleed itself every time you want to start it. I was recomended to change the fuel lift pump, which I have done with a new unit but this didn't solve the problem. I also changed a fuel line and replaced the filter bowl with a new one and a new filter. I did realise that I put some of the o-rings on the wrong way when I put the last filter on so rectified this. She's deffinately better now but still not perfect so any ideas much appreciated!
Also (landy again) smokes quite alot, its blue smoke which makes me suspect that its unburnt diesel which would explain the sub20 mpg figure I'm getting at the moment! It just smokes lots especially at idle and doesn't have the power I'm sure it should! Again any tips or ideas greatly recieved! Anyone got an old landy or willing to help out in the Aberdeen area (or Edinburgh)....Thanks in advance! Oh, and sorry for being off topic....I figure that landy's are cheap (sometimes) and therefore low-cost....like what I did there! Anyway thanks guys! Oli.

Usually cause is a leak at the fuel filter --- if you have a liitle rubber priming pump on the top of the filter assembly as on Rover cars and LDV vans this is the first place to look, they develop a pin hole.

Not a dear part to buy new.

Is it really a 2.5, or a 21/4. Don't know much about the former but the 21/4 could struggle to start and/or pass an emissions test even when new. Tip 1. Good earth lead direct from battery to starter motor. Tip 2. Spin engine for 10 seconds or so. Then apply heat. Then start.
Certainly if well used/high mileage have injectors and fuel pump checked. Land Rovers have a well deserved reputation for being damn good vehicles let down by poor materials, poor build quality, poor engines etc. We ran LR's for 40+ years ( Series I to III) until we aquired a MB G-Wagen on the cheap.........now tthat is a very different piece of kit for a farm runabout.

Blue Somke is Oil burning
Black Smoke is unburnt Diesel

I got 24mpg, which is average.

Cold Mornings, are you giving it some HEAT first?. Are all the Heater plugs working.
2 types:
series wound, TWO Terminals on each plug. ie (Heavy) wire from ignition goes to first heater, in and out to the next plug and so on, and the lasst one is connected to earth.
One Open circuit plug and NONE work.

Parallel type.
Once heavy wire is terminated on the single terminal of each heater plug. ie if one plug goes open circuit the other 3 still work, Howver, starting is obviously impaired.

The Feed wire to the heaters is heavy, and is sometimes fed via a heavy realay
30 to 40 Amps drawn when heating the cylinders.
Watch out for diesel conversions from Petrol. The Ignition switch is different... heavy contacts on the diesel one!

You need a GOOD Battery.

2.5 Na Diesels have Pre-combustion chambers with "hot Spots" an upturned cup with like little fingers which get red hot and help burn the fuel. These hot spot cups are often faulty.They are expensive to replace.

Good second hand 2.5 diesel heads are at a premium as they are prone to cracking.

ANY Head problems on a 2.5 Diesel is expensive.. Guess how I know

Sub 20mpg is not good.

There is a fuel spill rail that goes back to the fuel tank, you should have a feed to the lift pump, to the Filter, to the injectors, then back to the tank.

Water and crap in the fuel tank is also bad news.
I fitted the plastic filter from the Petrol Landy 90. on the dip tube in the tank. its nylon, and easily fitted. dont forget a new rubber gasket and circular clip on the tank if you do this.
Best thing is a glass bowl sedimentor in the fuel line... then you can see whats happening (Fit under the bonnet or along the Chassis rail in a protected place)

You Cant remover the Injector pump with out the special tool, or the Cog and belt fall into the timing chest... Unless you are rebuilding ona bench!!

I would take out the injectors and take them to your local Diesel Demons... and get them tested for pressure, and the spray pattern.
They may just need new tips screwing in.
Also dont forget to replace the copper washers at the bottom of the injector hole.
I put mine on a long screwdriver, then hold the washer, then get the screwdriver in the right place, then slide the washer down the screwriver.

I have a good working pump, and set of recon injectors if you are really stuck.

injector pump repairs are £500 if you want a decent job doing. its a specialist job due to the very high presures involved.
I was quoted £2,200 for a new injector pump from Landrover. Got mine repaired for £850 including parts. NOT cheap.(200Tdi pump for the Turbo engine)

Also the Mot man should look for the anti tamper seals as well.

when working on the injection system treat it like a Hospital operating theatre...
Keep every bit very very clean.
one small bit of shite in the pump, and it will loose pressure, and everything is very close tolerance due to the pressures involved.

That will give you something to think about for a while.

Paddockspares.com for parts for Landrover... not 100% the best, but excellent value for the money.



Edit:

2.25 diesel has the injector pump sticking up out of a Dizzy type hole halfway along the block.

2.5 (N/A, Turbo, 200 and 300 Tdi) has the injector pump in line with the crankshaft, hanging off the front timing cover.


[Edited on 14/12/2005 by wilkingj]

Oli

Depending on the version of the fan you may be able to get the blades off the hub esier than the hub off the engine. IIRR there are 4 M6 bolts holding the fan on.

To get the hub off you have to get a narrow ish spanner in between the fan and waterpump or in some other way jam the pump without putting too much pressure on anything thereby knackering it. Once that is jammed you can usually persuade the hub to unscrew from the shaft, persuade may involve judicious use of 2lb ball pein hammer and chisel! If all else fails take water pump off stick the rotor in the vice and welly the hell out of the hub, then go and buy a new waterpump as you probably broke the rotor:-(

Don't know about the diesel bleed back problem. have you tried clamping the return pipe and see if it starts?

Are you going to bring it to Edinburgh any time soon as I am happy to take a look

Caber

quote:

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Originally posted by britishtrident
Usually cause is a leak at the fuel filter --- if you have a liitle rubber priming pump on the top of the filter assembly as on Rover cars and LDV vans this is the first place to look, they develop a pin hole.

Not a dear part to buy new.

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£800! Paddock are selling new ones for £300....Its the parallel circuit not the series one and all the glow plugs are fine. The swirl chambers and hot plugs etc have all been changed not long ago and I had the whole head skimmed. I'm wondering if it could be a valve guide/seal or something as the engine was left sitting in the corner of a shed for 18months. I've got a spare cylinder head from a rover frieght engine in my garage, would it be worth trying this one on and see if it helps? I'm gonna have the injectors tested and reconditioned etc aswell, but I just wish it was a bit better and more driveable at the moment, I should be able to do more than 55 when warmed up with an overdrive! Thanks for all your help...Oli.

Well £300... thats why paddocks are so cheap. I wouldnt buy one!. But thats your choice. My Local injector specialst is the Dogs bits.. but a tad expensive.
Franchised dealer is £2,000 new, and £700 recon/exchange, if they have any!
Mine is 200Tdi Bosch Turbo pump, and is expensive anyway. Your N/A one will probably be a Lucas/CAv one which is a lot cheaper to sort.

Freight Rover head is Good... should be identical, unless its the peugeot (non Rover!) engine.

I would get a compression check before removing the head... cheaper and less work.
cant use a petrol engined compression gauge... need a diesel one. Cars are 9:1 CR Diesels are 22:1 ish.

good luck.. 60 mph on a 2.5 NAD is fair... mine did about 65.

PS... buy some Ear defenders for those long journeys


edit:

If it was a valve oil seal, you would get a lot of blue smoke that would clear fairly quickly.


[Edited on 14/12/2005 by wilkingj]

Oli, stop messing around with landys trying to sound manly and buy an X1/9!!!! After all, Laura is the one wearing the trousers (read overalls) in the relationship leave the landy to her! The bright pink one is still on ebay......she will only be a phone call away when yo break down

quote:

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Originally posted by oliwb
Hi, I've gone and bought myself a kenlowe fan for my series 3 land rover...just wanted to know if anyone had any idea how to remove the old viscous fan?? I've got an incling that you need a special tool..is this correct?? Also anyone tell me if I've done the right thing by buying one in the first place....(it's a 13" Kenlowe one looks in good nick and I got it for £35 so thought it was worth a go!)

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Yeh, I've been using the landrover international forum but to be honest when ever I ask a question I never seem to get a definitive answer! Its starting to get a bit annoying....The problem I'm having is that when you use the priming lever there's maybe 2 good pumps out of it then no pressure? It's a brand new pump and I've tried rotating the engine to get the thing of the cam lobe and it doesn't make any difference! I'm gonna take it and have it pressure tested and if that doesn't highlight anything easy I'll recondition this spare cylinder head I've got and put that one on it....How much would I need to do to it? eg, new valves and guides and seals etc or just take em out and re-grind them? Anything else I should know before I do all this, or I should deffinately change?? Cheers again guys and sorry for being off-topic!...Oh and just ignore X19 boy, cos his car has more rust per square foot than the titanic.....Cheers again...Oli.


Ps.
If you do find yourself with an extra fan please let me know....don't think I'll need two but it might be worth it anyway, just put the biggest one on.....Cheers.

Oh forgot to say, here she is....the bain (I mean life-blood) of my existence....Oli.
Rescued attachment archieoverbig.jpg

and another...imagine going round the world in this:
Rescued attachment archieinteriorbig.jpg

Theres an echo in here! or am I seeing double

I got a new body for my Landy.
Rescued attachment tub on the roof.jpg

quote:

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Originally posted by oliwb
Oh forgot to say, here she is....the bain (I mean life-blood) of my existence....Oli.

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I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.

quote:

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Originally posted by oliwb
I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.

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quote:

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Originally posted by oliwb
I have aloo more trouble keeping the damn thing warm then I do cool! Takes it ages to warm up and even then its still very cold! Oli.

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Its never given me any problems. The aerodynamics are a little messed up on the front end though. I can't top 150 any more