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Help, solutions needed
scutter - 30/3/03 at 09:17 PM

Gents, have just put in the engine AND

Problem one, it seems to be sitting a tad high!!,

Problem two, the inlet manifold that I brought at beulieu has the carbs sitting at about 15degs

Naturally this hampers fitting of the bonnet. The engine mounts are from Ron's old company now leugo, god only knows about the inlet manifold.

Have attched pics below.

Any Ideas!!!

All the best Dan.


paulf - 30/3/03 at 09:55 PM

It might be possible to machine the face of the manifold to get it to fit at a shallower angle , but it would depend on if there is sufficent metal, also the bolt faces would need to be made true to the gasket face afterwards.
Paul.

quote:
Originally posted by scutter
Gents, have just put in the engine AND



Problem two, the inlet manifold that I brought at beulieu has the carbs sitting at about 15degs

Naturally this hampers fitting of the bonnet.
Have attched pics below.

Any Ideas!!!

All the best Dan.



Rob Lane - 31/3/03 at 08:29 AM

You're not going to like this but you have a few choices, all involve work.

The engine mounts look far too long. It's hard to tell from a photo but mine were made much shorter than that.

You will need to chop the sump and baffle it to assist in ground clearance when you lower engine. Not too difficult but has to be done with care. I have a quick sketch that shows a successful sump mod, if you need it.

The inlet manifold looks like a rally version for the Mk2 escort, where there's slightly more room under bonnet.

I'm afraid it's the wrong one. You need the version that Caterham use, it's sold as either 60mm or 80mm long and swan necked to clear side rail. I think there's a photo on my website.

The exhaust manifold looks like it needs the diagonal removing and changing for two diagonals in a 'V' formation to allow room for pipes to exit at a lower point. It's not a problem as long as you re-triangulate the side rails again.

I used the 'Supersprint' rocker cover at one point. It will fit, but it's also better to angle the engine up at back to help the filler to dip below bonnet.

Rob Lane


Hornet - 31/3/03 at 08:54 AM

Not sure if this is any help....
1. Do you have engine brackets on correct way i.e. left and right hand.... this makes a differance to the height and the positioning.
2. The rubber mounts can be made to any size you want.... so you could make them smaller.
3. Remember to cheak bell housing distance from ground before you go cutting sumps...
Cant think of anything else.. Cheers.


JohnFol - 31/3/03 at 09:21 AM

Is that a lolocost exhaust manifold?


Rob Lane - 31/3/03 at 09:52 AM

Hornet,

The bellhousing is not the limiting factor on a crossflow, it's above the normal sump bottom line by at least 25mm, which means it can be usefully shortened.

Rob Lane


scutter - 31/3/03 at 04:06 PM

Cheers gent's,

Had my suspicions about the manifold, the exhaust manifold is a lolocost one and looks like it can move down another 1 1/2"- 2".

Will get the sump professionally chopped, do you just cut down the pickup pipe the same amount?

Was contemplating cutting an inch out of the engine mounts as I'm already using the 35mm mounts(shorter of the two).

Thanks again that's cheered me up after yesterdays set backs.

Dan.


paulbeyer - 31/3/03 at 10:22 PM

quote:

I have a quick sketch that shows a successful sump mod, if you need it.



Hi Rob I would be interested in a copy of the sump mod sketch. I am just about to mod my Pinto sump but I'm sure your crossflow info would be helpful.

Cheers.


geoff shep - 1/4/03 at 05:24 PM

Look on the RHOCaR site for build tips on sump modding. (Or try to get hold of an alloy RS one)


Dave Ashurst - 1/4/03 at 05:36 PM

hi Scutter,

I had a similar experience to you. In my case lots of fiddling with mounts to get engine height and angle just right. (Don't forget the gearbox mount too, for propshaft angle, parallel uj flanges etc.)

Also like you I fitted a high rise inlet manifold for DCOEs when I first shelved the good old downdraft, and I could'nt get the bonnet on. Then I bought an acceptable short one from Burton before finding an even lower-line one second hand.

I shortened the sump at the back, adding depth forward, and sideways too with wings and internal baffles. Needed to take care to drill decent internal holes at high and low points between adjacent baffled chambers to avoid trapping oil or air pockets. To start with I held the standard sump upside down on a board and scribed the main cut line around it parallel to the base with calipers.

I did miscalculate one wing a bit rather stupidly. It was 2mm too high and clashed with the starter motor, so I had to re-do that side.

My shortened pickup has a horizontal section of tube with a longitudinal slot at the end, underneath, covered by fine wire mesh, it's close to and parallel to the bottom of the sump. Need to measure and modify length to suit. Used locktite type stuff to seal the pick up pipe where it is pressed into the block to avoid entraining air.

regards
Dave


scutter - 1/4/03 at 09:45 PM

Cheers all for the replys, got laxy and took the sump to a locost engineers and told them to chop both sump and pick up.

Also just got an E-mail back from Cateringvan, they only want 60+vat for one of there short inlet maniflods.

Thanks again. Dan.