as you can see from these pics im having a trial fit of the engine which is a 1.8 pinto

but i do seem to have had some problems with the chassis

the engine is too long

if u look at the pics ull see that the bottom front rail stop the engine from sitting on the engine mountings and i cant move it back because the prop shaft wouldnt fit on then

[Edited on 31/3/03 by redeye]
Rescued attachment 110-1046_IMG2.JPG

and heres another view
Rescued attachment 110-1047_IMG2.JPG

The difference in my car is that the back of the bellhousing is about 1cm from the chassis - I reckon that the enginehas to go back quite a long way (I know I've got a X-flow, but I did have a Pinto originally, and the engine sits in the same place with the same mounts).

I can't help with the mountings and propshaft problem, though.

David

You are going to have to alter the prop. The engine is way too far forward to fit the nosecone on the chassis without hacking it to bits. My car has a 2ltr pinto and the engine is 8" further back than that at least. Put the engine in the right place first, then make the prop to fit the gap between the gearbox output and the diff flange.
Rescued attachment pedal box 1.jpg

It's not the best but it's all I had. The last H.T. lead shows where the back of the engine is. It's about 3" from the bulkhead.

yours, Pete.

Phew! That's a LONG way back! Makes extending the gearchange redundant tho'. 8-)

To match the book (and West field, incidentally) you only need to get the bellhousing next to the chassis, as I said. This will leave you with a couple of inches clear at the front.

Pete - this isn't a criticism of what you've done - yours is just a bit more drastic than the book design. How do you manage for foot space with the bellhousing so far back?

rgds,

DJ

The width is o.k.and with the seat back I am comfortable. I drive with my knees bent anyway. I don't like stretching out. The gear lever is spot on without any mods apart from shortening. I am 5' 11" with size 8 feet so I must be average.

yours, Pete.

my car, which has a cologne v6 but the same type 9 box and bell housing, has the box pushed back to approx position of the green line on the pic.

It could have gone further back, but would have created hassles as the clutch lever would have fouled the tunnel and lost foot room.

I thought I had it fairly far forward! Howeve, on the relatively short V6 there is a whole loada room at the front. Cant do bugger all with it or the rad airflow and engine cooling would be impeded.

try and get it at least as far back as the line.

atb

steve
Rescued attachment gbox.jpg

I've put a few pictures in the photos to show a bit more detail of the front and rear etc.

yours, Pete.

Have my bellhousing as far back as I could. Sides of tunnel are not vertical, I've angled them like this, / , to give more space at pedal height. No need for a gear extension either.

[Edited on 1/4/03 by Ian Pearson]

Have my bellhousing as far back as I could. Sides of tunnel are not vertical, I've angled them like this, / , to give more space at pedal height. No need for a gear extension either.
Rescued attachment DSCF0703.JPG

Ooops... sorry about the size of the image. Not very computer literate.

cheers for all the help fellas

i popped round to a bloke building a quantum extreme

he showed me his prop shaft doesnt have the big rubber mounting isnt used

this means i can put the engine further back

just wondering where i should get a modified prop shaft from?

i got mine from auto prop or reco prop -cant remeber which one - in luton.

they supplied the whole shaft from brand new parts for about 12 quid plus vat.

a lot safer than making one yourself - this thing rotates at 7,000 rpm and will flail around like a weapon if our welding isnt 100%.

atb

steve

Speaking from experience here, get someone to make the prop for you. I was doing 60 when mines decided it could not take the lack of balancing anymore. It then procided to cut through the brake pipes and cables, and come out of the tunnel on the passeneger side tearing a 6 inch hole where the passenger seat is. Luckily no one was in the seat.

Oh and I might add that I never made the shaft. I bought my car complete. The guy I bought it of said there was a vibration about 55 but once you go through it, it settles down. Works for so long till the UJ's pack in.

My prop is home made from 16g tubing using a transit front and Capri rear. It doesn't vibrate but I had a transit pickup that shook like a jelly over 45mph. The problem was found to be that the joint at the rear had been renewed in the wrong position, not at 90 degrees to but in the same plane as the front joint. A short prop will not take much balancing. If you have it made proffessionally it should be done as a matter of course.

yours, Pete.