Hi
Hopefully someone here can answer this. I have Type 9 gearbox and wish to modify the gearstick so it leans back more so i can hopefully then put in
my dashboard design which has a centre section which is lower than the rest of the dashboard.
What would be the best way to create the bend towards the bottom of the gearstick, is it just a matter of heating it up then bending it or are there
any parts of the stick that won't tolerate the heat.
If anyone has done this and would care to let me in on technique I'd be grateful.
Cheers
Nigel
I know this isn't answering your question, so please forgive me if you didn't want to hear this, but there is a remote gear change
mechanism, that used to be sold by just Westfield, but that now is sold by a couple of other people aswell (rally Design???)
And does a super job of moving the lever back about 3-4 inches
One was on ebay about a month ago aswell, so you might get one that way!
hth
Steve.
on my falcon I just put a notch in the stick, bent it and then welded it up again. simple.
thanks, That was my first thought but the Indy transmission tunnel has a rail across it right where I believe the remote would fit.
If I'm wrong and they do fit an Indy if anyone could supply a phot and tell me what type of remote thay used I'd be most grateful.
Cheers
Nigel
[Edited on 24/4/07 by jabbahutt]
The chassis rail would probably be in the way. Nothing a hack saw won't fix though
The chassis rail was in the way on my scratch built I recall now that you have mentioned it!
I just moved it - no drama!
cheers,
Steve.
Hi Andy,
I've just found this on a tiger build diary site:
http://www.geocities.com/drusling/engine_main.htm#remote
It shows a diagram of the tiger linkage and of the westy linkage and then a photo of the westy linkage in situ.
hth
Steve.
I had a top crossbar in the way where my gear stick wanted to be, so on advice from Mac#1 I cut out the crossbar and did not replace it. That meant I
could get the gear lever further back and just about clear the dash.
The other thing I did was to remove the top part of the gear lever (i.e. the bit with the knob on it, connected via a rubber joint thingy to the
rest), bent back the remaining stumpy lever a bit, then extended it a bit higher using steel tubing. I have now got a shortish lever which clears the
dash and is not too far a stretch
This is how we modified our gearstick, since then we have fitted a type 9 and did the same thing with that stick. Now we are planning to get the
extension mentioned above.
We added another section at the end and welded up the cuts, it's worked for us for 3 years but the travel on the stick is a little to much.
[Edited on 24/4/07 by RoadkillUK]
Would a quikshift help?
Quickshift
cheers
Chris 
[Edited on 24/4/07 by chrisg]
getting there
bit of hunting reveals that a remote shift will fit an Indy even with the chassis rail as long as the gearbox support is attached under the
brackets.
Can someone explain how they're fitted. I get that it bolts to the original 3 bolt on top but where does the item underneath that looks like a
bolt of a rifle go? do you remove the upper blanking plate on the rear of the box?
Any photos of a remote fitted to a type 9?
Cheers for the help so far, nearly there
only one question left now, apologies but my searches aren't turning up the answers.
fitting one seems quiet easy but is there anything that needs removing and fitting to the remote? if so is it easy and not need welding etc (I'm
thinking of the reverse detent as an example) I know nothing about gearboxes/welding and the gearbox is fitted.
If anyone has fitted a westfield style remote to a type 9 could you let me know what is involved and how simple is it.
Thanks
I cut out the bulky bit, and re-welded it on without the virbation damping bit - bent it back in te process - and it works just fine. Nice distance
from the handbrake and the dash.
If you want a pic, drop me a line
Tom
quote:
Originally posted by tom_loughlin
I cut out the bulky bit, and re-welded it on without the virbation damping bit - bent it back in te process - and it works just fine. Nice distance from the handbrake and the dash.
If you want a pic, drop me a line
Tom
Oh yeah, weld a washer in or something 
I didn't the first time and the lever broke off 
Yes , you need to remove the reverse detent or you'll never go backwards, as you can no longer lift the stick clear. Otherwise that's it really.
I have a couple of remotes one as came with my Tiger Cat and one that I made which uses the standard gear lever as on David Jenkins site
http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/
only without the reverse detent and reverse light switch.
Rescued attachment DSCF0038.JPG
Tiger remote
Rescued attachment DSCF0035.JPG
many thanks to everyone who has posted with help on this subject.
This should now be the last question. From an earlier post I understand the reverse detent needs removal. Can this be done with the gearbox fitted?
and is it relatively straight forward.
If the above is achieveable does the removed detent need welding the the new extension or does that come with it.
Thanks again for the help and patience. This looks like the ideal solution it just takes a while for me to get my head round things.
Cheers
Nigel
http://www.sites.ecosse.net/locost/help/sierra_gear_ext.htm
another version
Made my remote following David Jenkins instructions . Mine still uses the reverse stop with no problems . I had a spare box to play with and bolted remote to it adjust the stop so that it works before welding on
If you're interested, have a look at my website (link below) - follow the link for "Special tools & parts" and select "Ford
5-speed gearbox extension".
If you like the look of it, you can either make one, or send a U2U to "Micael" who makes almost identical ones for sale.
HTH
David