What are they? I understand that capillary is more accurate but probably more of a pain to fit.
I'm looking to monitor the temp & pressure on my R1. I've tapped the oil cooler bolt & sump for 1/8" npt connections.
Anyone got any locost gauge recommendations, I'm gonna use the bike clock for doing everything else.

I have a capillary water temp one...and it is easy to fit, just add an adatoper in the top hose, and thats it. Really easy to install.

i have heard that the electric ones are harder to install.

i would use another capillary one again if i need another gauage.

russ

The only worry I have is that it means you've got engine oil and coolant directly over your legs.... If that pipe bursts or the connection to the dial leaks it could be very bad..........

Its a pretty long very thin pipe so i think if anything broke you would know about it long before it was a serious problem.

I have a NOS japanese capilliary water temp guage with a chrome bezel if anyone is interetsed!

Caber

I have a Burton top hose adaptor for temp gauge, with various reducer bits for sale £15.00

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Originally posted by BenB
The only worry I have is that it means you've got engine oil and coolant directly over your legs.... If that pipe bursts or the connection to the dial leaks it could be very bad..........

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What ^^ said for the temp gauges. The older ones I've had used mercury apparently, basically making the gauge a long, thin thermometer! The oil pressure gauges do cary oil all the way to the gauge, as I once forgot to attach mine, but the leakage is very minor if they do let go.

surely electical one is easier to install?!?!

you fit the sender, attach the wires at each end and job done!

with capillary you need to be careful the sneder does not turn as you do up the nut, inevitably the tube will be too long so you need to support it somehow and as the gauge/sneder is one piece, if you want to move the dash or remove the gauge, you need to remove the sneder - not so with electircal one.

I am not convince that electircal ones are less accurate .

One thinkg I have notice is capilllary guages have the poinbter pivoted in the centre = nice , electrical ones have it at 6 o;clock positions = not so nice - dunno why they can have it in centre too.

Capilalry temp guages don't need power so will still in dicate when the engien is not running.igntion off.

cpailaary tmep guages, as said are sealed units with some liquid.gas inside so no connectrion to the water/oil system.,

Capilallry oil pressure gauges connect to the oil suppy, if the capillayr breeka, you will loose oil, about a drop per minutes or so - a tiny amount - nothing to worry about but does make a bit of a mess (ask me how I know that ).

capliallyr tend to be cheaper.

so it is up to you; best choose the guage that matehces the oterh instruments so bear the pointer poisition in mind.

Would putting the water temp in the top hose give an accurate reading - which way does the water go through the radiator? I've just bought some capillary guages and the water temp sender is way too big for the block so I was wondering what to do!

James

what radaitor? and how plumbed in?

thing is the older radaitors have header tan along top/bottom and would have hot water coming in at the top. the modern ones have headers on the sides so harder to say.

and it goes back to the old cheshnut of whether you want to read temp of water leaving the engine or going into the engine?

I prefer to put it where it leaves the engine.

Can you dril the radiator and braze in a holder for the sender?

Or else do the same in a piece of tube to join in the hose.