Just got back from the garage and thought I'd share the experience....
If you ever think about changing the clutch on a ST1100 don't!!
What a PITA!
To change the friction plates you have to remove the clutch nut that's torqued up to 110Nm and is recessed deep within the clutch....
Haynes manual gleefully says you need a special tool or put it in first and lock the brakes (or some dodgey thing made up of two bits of metal and a
bolt).... I did the 1st gear with brakes on approach....
I don't know who last changed the clutch but I think they went past 110Nm to FT!!! Despite the handbrake and brakes I had the rear wheels
turning!!! Bloody hell...
In the end I unbelievably carefully drilled out the nut and split it (without drilling into the clutch centre bolt)....
4 hours upside down straining like a b@stard whilst hoping the car doesn't fall off the axle stands onto me and hoping I hadn't just drilled
through the nut into the clutch bearing....
I had a similar thing with the bird. I was struggling like a right wotsit, but then had an epiphany. Take two clutch plates and a driven plate or two, drill 3 holes through all of them, bolt together and install. The clutch then holds itself in place with no faffing about.
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
Easy job with a car engine {light touchpaper and retire} As already said use top gear when undoing/tightening . An decent air wrench helps
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
Yeh- I wondered why they put first gear- I wondered if a higher gear would be better!!!! As I lay under car swearing and cussing I thought Haynes must know what they were talking about.... but now I'm not so sure!!!
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
first would be better if you were using the engine alone to hold it still, but this is a bit crap anyway for tight stuff. As you say 5th is better if the wheels and brakes are connected. A little oversite by haynes!
quote:
Originally posted by gazza285
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
Its perhaps a bit late now but top gear would be better than 1st. It doesn't multiply the torque as much and so the car won't creep along as you undo the nut.
first would be better if you were using the engine alone to hold it still, but this is a bit crap anyway for tight stuff. As you say 5th is better if the wheels and brakes are connected. A little oversite by haynes!
Unless it was written for a motorbike perhaps?
On the bike you can put a piece of stout wood between the wheel and swinging arm, doesn't matter what gear then
.
that sort of nut is always best undone by impact, pref air wrench.
If you try and undo it using the big bar approach it makes it tricky