
Hi All
In the last couple of weeks my Rover V8 has decided it doesn't like just water/coolant in the system and keeps making room for some air...
Initially I thought this was as I had a bit of air in the system and it was expandinging and blowing the coolant out, then pulling some more air in as
it cools etc. etc.
This afternoon I have totally refilled the system and I am 99% certain there is no air in it. I took it out for a spin and all was good. Took it for
another spin and after about 12 miles I noticed the temperature had gone up again (to about 90 - I normally run at about 80). Nursed it the couple of
miles home keeping an eye on the temp and it touched 100. On getting back I checked it over to find that coolant had been coming out at the header
tank (15psi cap) and the radiator cap (20psi cap).
Anyone got any ideas as I am at a loss!
1 sugestion I had was one of the head gaskets but I am preying that isn't the case...
Thanks in advance
Mark
does the header tank smell of exhaust fumes..if so
hopefully something simple like a stuck thermstat...
Paul
Sounds very much like it could be the head gasket. Get it checked using a block tester kit , although it is possible to check using a 4 gas emissions tester.
had a honda once, kept overheating, thought i'd try cheap options first. new rad cap sorted it out. never overheated after that. maybe suggest trying that before pulling the whole thing apart?
Have you tested the stat? Checked for water in the valley under your inlet manifold? Looked around your water pump for staining?
It is quite hard to blow up a v8 so check all of the simple stuff first.
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
Have you tested the stat? Checked for water in the valley under your inlet manifold? Looked around your water pump for staining?
It is quite hard to blow up a v8 so check all of the simple stuff first.
First things first with Rv8's.
Is the little waterpipe on top of the inlet blocked, the one that resides around the engine temp ECU plug (or for carbs the small water pipe between
the carbs) ?
Then does this pipe go to your header tank ?
This is the high point of the engine, if it gets blocked water boils on the heads, cannot escape via this little tube and you get the appearance of a
knackered head gasket.
They quickly get blocked, a little blob of silicon if you have glued the waterpump on etc. Make sure the pipe is clear both ends, try and force some
water into the engine lower down incase a bit of debris is floating around in the inlet, blocks it, you overheat and then drops away when the engine
cools off.
If it is the head gasket/porous block (not uncommon on the 4.2) if you remove the plugs and have a peak at the tops of the pistons one will be very
clean, this indicates head gasket failure or the above.
Regards Mark
Mark:
The engine was a "rebuilt as new" about 1000 miles ago... Would all the pistons not be really clean?
I will whip the plugs out tonight and have a look. Fingers corssed...
Agriv8:
Not taken anything to pieces yet. I will whip the rocker covers off too and have a look. The 3rd row of bolts are not there as the engine rebuilder
recomended strongly against them as they pull the heads off center (or something like that!) The engine is a '93 4.2.
Plugs - that is a good point, I will check them too.
Nitram38:
No water leakage onto engine or from around the water pump. The stat was brand new 1000 miles ago so I suspect it isn't that but worth a check
too!
Thanks for the advice everyone, I will update if I find anything.
Mark
Keep the faith paradoxia.
running 4.2 v8 as well and yup your right about the head bolts.
Keep us updated.
regards
Agriv8
Quick update for anyone interested...
The header tank smells of exhaust fumes, the left hand exhaust keeps condensating at tickover long after the right bank stops condensating and there
appear to be "mayo" in the breather pipe in the top of the rocker cover....
She is now at the engine builders for a pro opinion but it is looking like headgasket or a cylinder liner has gone
The engine builders and going to check it out and let me know. Fingers crossed as it has only done 900 miles on that "rebuilt as new" engine
it will be fixed under warrenty.....
Mark
It's official... the cylinder liner on one of the cylinders is f***ed....
The builders have offered to replace the block for me for free (but losing any remaining warrenty!!??) so fingers crossed when I get this engine out,
over o them and collect the rebuilt block back all will be well again.
That makes an engine in and out 8 times now
Oh well, at least I know what I am doing now!
Mark
Shouldn't lose warranty if still inside the original warranty period!
I agree with Rusty. They screwed up, they fix and warranty stands incase anything else goes wrong.
Sale of goods act (ie fit for purpose intended - 1000 miles doesn't cover it!) etc etc
ATB
Simon
I don't know anything about this man or who the engine builder is but be careful before you start slagging him off.
Did he rebuild the engine you supplied or did he supply the original unit? Rover designed the heap of crap not him, these engines, including the 4.6
(probably even worse) are known to develop liner problems so hows that his fault?
There is an inherant fault with the unit and it sounds as if that's where the problems stemming from and not necessarily his workmanship.
As I say I don't know the details, but then neither do the barrack room lawyers on here know either. Sounds to me that he's being very fair.
Maybe next time you'll go for a decent engine! (Sorry couldn't resist).
If he (the reconditioner) supplied the engine then as I say " If it is still within the warranty period " the engine should still be under warranty until the expiry date of the original warranty
Hi David and everyone else on here.
It is not my intention to slag off the engine builder (and I have not mentioned any names) as I have no problems with them at all. They are a well
respected company that produce some fantastic engines used for about everything a V8 can be used for.
I agree, swapping the block out for free is a generous resolution to the problem! I am just disapointed that this block has given up the ghost after
about 900 miles, and when I spent a large sum of hard earned cash on it rather than a second hand one so I knew I would have no further problems, and
now I have to remove and replace the engine yet again. (If you have seen my previous threads you will see the grief I have had engine wise - and I am
beginning to agree that I should have gone for something else... a peddle car maybe?
)
Mark
Mark,
Gutted for you, Has the builder discussed what vintage of block he intends to replace it with ? Is the new block going to be presure tested ? new
liners fitted ?
The reason behind this is that how do you know if the new block is going to be any better ? ( last more than 1k )
The only real way to ensure this isnt going to happen again is to remove the liners and check ( fix if necesary ) the thickness of the block casting
behind each liner ( fitting top hat liners is a soloution as well but wont go into that here ). ( this is my understanding anyway from talking to the
v8 guru who did some work on my block)
regards
Agriv8
Hi All
Good news, got my engine back - yipeee!
It appears to be a 3.9 block but as the 3.9 and the 4.2 is the same block with different internals and this block has the internals from my 4.2 in it
is still a 4.2.
My dad dropped it round last night at 7pm, and with the help of Steve (balidey) we had it all fitted and ready to turn the key by midnight. As it was
late left until this morning to try.
first turn no joy, second turn and it sounded like someone was shooting at me so after 180degree turn on the dizzy she went the very next go. It
actually feels like it pulls stronger than the previous block did so I am well happy and a huge thanks to the engine builders for sorting me out.
Mark
3.9 blocks are notorious for dropping liners. the 4.2 are same block but stroked I believe.
I am not sure how easy it is for engine builder to test for slipped liner.
the fix is to use top hat liners.