I just discovered that the oil feed bung that I drilled and tapped into the side of my pot aluminum remote oil filter housing is leaking badly from the threads and has stripped. The steel bung has threads on both ends, one side threads into the housing (now stripped), the other side accepts the threaded oil supply pipe and feeds the top of the turbo. It's a steel line actually, not a flex hose, and I am certain that the torque of the engine at full chat (turbo/redline) stressed the connection into the remote filter housing causing it to fail. It will be replaced with steel braided hose.

This leaves me with the scenario of either shelling out the cash for a new remote filter housing to re drill/tap, or attempting to repair the bungled unit to accept the bung again.

So the question is:

What options do I have to affix a steel bung into a stripped pot aluminum housing in a permanent fashion? Fill that hole with epoxy and make a new hole? TIG weld it shut and re drill-tap? Buy a new remote housing and start over?

Thank for your advice.

Helicoil ? Or is it some strange thread ?

belzona
(that may be spelt wrong)
fantastic stuff if you can get it clean enough, and dont want to take it apart later

Re-tap to accept adapter of larger size? Not sure a helicoil would seal depends on where the oil seal is?

Dan

Technoweld (or any of the similar stick friction brazing methods) would work. You'ld need to clean the thread ++ first (cotton buds dipped in thinners works for me) and it taps very nicely... Obviously if the remote filter housing has any rubber parts you'll need to remove them or you'll toast them with the blowtorch and it might smoke a tad if it's covered in oil

ps. What exactly are cotton buds sold for? Some packets now even have a warning not to put them into ears (advice which everyone ignores of course!!)... So why sell them?? Not that I'd recommend putting them near an ear canal of course- I've seen too many people who've spanked them into (and sometimes even through) their ear drum Maybe they're so that small rodents can have Gladiator style competitions... Awooonga!!

http://www.technoweld-fusion.com/english/productinfo.htm

gives more info.

Get a bigger steel bolt, stick in a vice and tap and drill the inside of this to suit you hose then.....

Drill out and tap the tank to accept this internally threaded bolt, then bolt in with some epoxy/instant metal etc, something to make this permanent.

When cured, cut the top off flush to the tank edge, you now have a threaded steel insert thats not going anywhere.


Regards Mark

first question should be wich size of thread is it what you need and do you have/can you buy that male tool...

i would laser/jet cut a piece of alloy/stainless/steel 15mm thick. and just redrill/retap the thread in it. and weld that plate to the base of the filter/unit.

if you make some pics of what the problem is then its also easyer to give a better/usefull answer.

Tks

Here's the beastie:



I think an epoxy that is resistant to oil will work. I've been told that certain variants of JB Weld (epoxy) don't care for oil.

dunno the material bit woudn't it be easyer to just weld on a NUT of the needed thread?

it would work for sure and for ever

Tks

After talking with a local chap about the problem; someone with a lot of experience in race engines, I believe re-drilling larger and tapping it to accept a steel braided hose with male threaded end will resolve everything in the most simple and durable fashion.

The turbo oil inlet has a restrictor inline so the size of the feed line is not important. Just that it doesn't leak. That IS important!

ok if its solid that is abvious the most easy solution.

just clean it good after the drilling / tapping..

but you will know that...

TKs

material of the housing could be to thin to put thread in.
Braze-solder (technoweld durafix) a piece of alloy to the housing and tap new thread in there, easy as chips and you only need a file and a propane burner,

very strong and tap/die friendly stuff.

Grtz Thomas

[Edited on 10/10/07 by thomas4age]

Get a BSP Tapered or NPT Thread tap and tap it and use a appropriated sized fitting and cap it off.

NB Tapered thread.

Tapered thread NPT is a good idea and brazing some additional material is spot on. I was thinking about using an o-ring, but the tapered thread with some teflon tape should be just what the doc ordered.

Thanks.