Hi all,

A mate at work has a "homer" to lighten a mates Ford flywheel but has no idea how much to take off it. Any one done it before?? Where do you start?? Any suggestions



Ford Flywheel

Not sure if the image is working but its in my archive under random

[Edited on 20/12/07 by Beardy_John]

pic

if you take to much meat of it will explode

work done by Scholar engines.

jesus! thats vids nuts! will make sure he dosent take that much off it!!!

big_wasa - that looks similar to the one my mates got. looks like they took loads off it. he was just going to skim it in a few places. Looks like the clutch face has dropped about 10-20mm???

(its going to be used for banger racing btw)

Just chuck the 1.8 Zetec flywheel on significantly lighter...

The Zetec isn't a particularly revvy engine anyway, so the lighter flywheel doesn't really help that much - what the Zetec is good at delivering is bags and bags of torque - I'd focus more on that than a lightened flywheel...

Just my opinion after having built one...

M

I can't see anywhere what engine it is, some engines aren't recommended for lightened flywheels like my v6

The 1.8cvh is very light and can be made fit.

Would mean fitting a trigger wheel to run the ignition.

Its not really a question of fititng something else, a guy we know does banger racing and wants a bit of an edge.

however, there is further plotting behind my question as i could get my pinto flywheel done as well (if it was worth doing)

A lightened flywheel for banger racing???
Must be civil war time!! I suppose it will make look like this quicker

if its cast be very careful .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRme7UkY8Bc&feature=related

ttvracing do billet steel flywheels for £150 . Much better than losing a foot .

quote:

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Originally posted by Beardy_John
Hi all,

A mate at work has a "homer" to lighten a mates Ford flywheel but has no idea how much to take off it. Any one done it before?? Where do you start?? Any suggestions?

[Edited on 20/12/07 by Beardy_John]

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^^^^^ I couldn't agree more - and get a proper scatter shield.

Or you may well need to use hand controls after it explodes as you can lose your feet.

Just because he can use a lathe doesn't mean he can lighten a flywheel. The stored energy is enough to go through the bellhousing the body and arms and legs. I have seen home modified flywheels and they are scary not just for the owner but any of us who happen to be standing next to one when they let go.

Just buy a lightened balanced flywheel. Loosing legs costs more then a aftermarket flywheel.











Don't want to scare you, but you get the point i guess

yep get a steel one.

Especially for bangers, as I assume the engine changes shell every couple of weeks, its not like it won't get used enough. Even when the engine is tired out, the flywheel just goes onto the next one.

Worth spending £125 on in my opinion, its a once only buy if you get a steel one.

We had one on a pinto come loose, though not come off fortunately, through being a bit out of balance plus a big overrev.

Have a look in a book called
How to power tune a Ford sohc
pinto & sierra Cosworth dohc engines
by Des Hammill it tells you how to do a lightweight fly wheel on page 93
jacko

Des Hamil may identify how to lighten it but he does not tell you how to do the dye penetrant inspection or what criteria to use for acceptance.

This is why I decided ARP bolts were worth the money on the Striker. All the stands between the flywheel and my legs is a thin alloy bellhousing, the thin alloy tunnel and a few inches of fresh air.

my zetec se fly, from shawspeed,