hi all,
my avon (2L zetec) struggles to keep cool enough when ina queue or ticking over- on the move its fine. I have a polo rad fitted at the moment, was
thinking of adding a small second radiator (form a motorbike maybe?) as a way of knocking the temp down by a few degrees.
anyone done this or any thoughts on how to plumb one in? I guess a good option would be to plumb it where the heater normally goes?
les
is your fan working when it should and correctly positioned?
If you are struggling to cool it with a Polo rad then i'd suggest you have an issue somewhere rather than a lack of cooling ability from the
radiator!!
First thing i'd check is the radiator fan. Bypass the thermostatic switch in the radiator with a short piece of wire with a couple of spade
connectors and see if the fan is working properly and forcing air through the radiator. Otherwise its possible you have an air lock i guess but
unlikely if you arent having issues when on the move but i'd suggest its most likely to be the fan.
[Edited on 7/4/08 by Paul TigerB6]
you could use a heater matrix, they can transfer alot of heat for their size and are peanuts from the scrappy
I wired in an additional switch so I can manually turn the fan on for a bit while stuck in traffic.
Although the thermostatic switch operates the fan OK at it's pre-set 87 degrees, I like to have the ability to switch it on myself. Usually when
coming to lights or a traffic jam after a bit of a blast.
Surprising how quickly the temperature comes down with the fan on.
HTH
Mike
hi,
fan is the biggest i could fit on the rad. it cuts in when the temp gets to just under 100, if you leave it ticking over the temp will only very
gradually fall, only getting down to about 95. and if left, the temp never gets low enough for the fan to switch off. as i say once on the move its
seems fine. in a queue it once went to 120, not sure who was sweating the most me or the engine!
not sure on airlocks etc, i have had the system empty a couple of times. with the cap off the expansion tank there seems to be a reasonable flow
through there.
les
Just under 100degC - i'd suggest its time for a new switch then myself so it turns on earlier!!
ok, thanks for the replies guys
I got the switch with the kit from tiger- most stuff they supplied was rubbish!!
can anyone give me a part number / source for a switch for polo rad?
les
Water boils under one bar pressure about 115c leaving a fair safety margin.
The normal temperature operating range for a Zetec is 92 to 100c.
Normallly Mondeo fans cut in at 100c and cut out at 93c.
According to the Haynes manual The standard Mondeo thermostat starts to open at 92c and is fully open at 106c
I suspect the root of the problem is the size of the cooing fan, but you need to do some checks before doing anything major.
(1) Check the fan is turning in the correct direction and is mounted close to the radiator.
Using a digtial Wide Range Probe Thermometer:
(2) Check your instrumentation is giving the correct reading.
(3) You need to check the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature -- normally on a Zetec it only starts to open at 92c, I would expect it
to be fully open by 95c
(4) You need to check the fan switch cut in and cut out temperatures.
[Edited on 7/4/08 by britishtrident]
interesting,
I have a mechanical racetech temp guage, which I have fitted into the large hose which comes out of the black thermostat housing- guage was new so
fairly sure it will be right- but maybee the location is not so good?
I should say in all this that it has never actually boiled over even when reading 120!!
les
quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
Just under 100degC - i'd suggest its time for a new switch then myself so it turns on earlier!!
quote:
Originally posted by les
interesting,
I have a mechanical racetech temp guage, which I have fitted into the large hose which comes out of the black thermostat housing- guage was new so fairly sure it will be right- but maybee the location is not so good?
I should say in all this that it has never actually boiled over even when reading 120!!
les
If the fan switches on at 100°C and the rad cools slowly then the coolant and rad seem fine. I'd check that the fan is wired the right way round as it seems to be the cause of the problem.
It does have a thermostat bypass- i think you might be right about the fan though- i bought it new from cbs it is as big a fan as you could fit on the
rad- fitted on the back of the rad, sucking- ill check the direction and wiring, then if no joy i think replace the thermostst bypass plumbing with a
heater type rad plumbed in as the heater and see what happens
les
has it always done this or has it just started happening?.
if its always done this, maybe you still have the 2.0l water pump on, which from reading on here, if you have altered the drive belt route , as most
have to, the pump runs backwards causing ouver heating at tickover.
this is what i have read on here, but i havent done mine yet, so would be interested to hear the outcome.