Can anyone on here help me? I am replacing a poorly K series 1.4 mpi with a good spi but want to fit the mpi bits instead of the spi. Can anyone on
here confirm if I have to change the flywheel over as well for the crank sensor? superficially they look the same. I was hoping it would just be
changing the the inlet manifold. Are there anymore problems that I should be aware of? engine is in a GTM, normally I just play with pintos.
Thanks
Change the flywheel reluctor ring, fit a brand new crank sensor change over the temperature sensors and it might work.
The Rover MEMS system is very picky about the signal from the crank sensor -- sometimes even without changing anything the signal goes out of spec and
it will not pass the security test.
Reason for fitting a new crank senor is any major work on a k series that involves splitting the engine from the gearbox usually damages the crank
sensor -- usually the trouble only shows up a couple of months later.
An SPI engine will be pretty old --- first generation of the K series --- it really a different head and block entirely. Unless the original
engines is totally smashed up better to fix that.
1.4 SPI head will almost certainly be the 'low port' type.
What is wrong with the MPI engine, just a head gasket?
Thanks for the information so far chaps, I was worried re the head but it is a high port one 
The mpi engine has a failed head gasket and I
don't know what else, it has been parked up for 5 years, even the outside of the block is corroding. The spi engine was re-manufactured a couple
of years ago, has done 3k miles and looks brand new. Interestingly although the head castings look the same the block on the mpi has extra external
ribbing, (a bit like fan vaulting for the architects) is this an earlier block?
If the engine in the car has a plastic inlet manifold then a leaking inlet manifold gasket was the most likely original cause of coolant loss.
Unless the engine has been truly cooked lift the head off and have a look; it really is a very easy job to remove and refit a K16 cylinder head.
But before unbolting the head the timing marks have to be lined up, it might be an idea to some oil soak down the cylinder bores for a couple of days
before turning the engine to line up the marks as this should let ensure the pistons move freely in the bores --- once the head is off very important
not to rotate, the crank more than 15 degrees or so either way.
This tool is handy to lock the cams but not essential
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2-4596-27846-draper-cam-locking-tool-rover-k16.asp
If all looks ok when you lift the head all that is required to refit it is a new head gasket, liquid gasket, and a new inlet manifold gasket --nb
no new head bolts required.
[Edited on 11/7/08 by britishtrident]
quote:
once the head is off very important not to rotate, the crank more than 15 degrees or so either way.
The K series has floating half wet liners which shouldn't be disturbed when the head is removed.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
The K series has floating half wet liners which shouldn't be disturbed when the head is removed.