
Just about to start plumbing in my hydraulic clutch. I'm re-using the original set up from my Rover 600 donor. On the Rover there was this fluid
damper plumbed in between the master and slave cylinders. I still have the damper, but I'm just wondering if it's entirely necessary and
what the effect would be if I leave it out?
Cheers,
Bill
quote:
Originally posted by bilbo
Just about to start plumbing in my hydraulic clutch. I'm re-using the original set up from my Rover 600 donor. On the Rover there was this fluid damper plumbed in between the master and slave cylinders. I still have the damper, but I'm just wondering if it's entirely necessary and what the effect would be if I leave it out?
Cheers,
Bill
Thanks for that. If it's to stop damage, then I'd better go ahead and fit it. We'll see how it goes.
Cheers,
Bill
I took the one off my MG Metro and the pedal used to pump-up hard. I refitted it and the problem went away!
When I fitted the MG lump in my Mini pick up I took the damper off and had no problems so it looks as if you pay your money and take your pick?
Early Mnis didn't have it --- In Minis it prevents the clutch release fork lever thingy (it is not fork shaped) getting bent, which results in
the gears grinding when trying to enage reverse or 1st.
Although the clutch release bearing clearance is adjustable on Minis the relasese fork/lever runs out of motion and driver foot pressure can bend
it..
Cure is to hot bend it back straight --- no more problems getting 1st or reverse.
[Edited on 30/8/08 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 30/8/08 by britishtrident]
ahhhhh, always wondered why they fitted them the the fwd a series stuff!!
for what its worth, I've never fitted anything like that on any hydraulic clutch conversions that I have done (a few now) BUT I have made sure
that the master cylinder ran out of travel, or the clutch pedal hit a stop, BEFORE anything in the clutch mechanism ran out of travel!