Anyone got any bright ideas on how to remove the small crankshaft pulley on a 2.0L pinto? I want to replace the oil seal behind it but it is stuck
like a bastard. I've tried marinating it in WD-40 for a few days, but it still won't budge. It it surrounded by some wierd looking cast alloy casing
so I can't get any leverage behind it and with that being the case I don't see how I would be able to get the arms of a puller behind it either. All
the Haynes manual says is "undo the bolt and remove the pulley by hand" yea right.
Do you really mean the crankshaft, or are you talking about the water pump pulley (a well-known bastard to remove). It's the 'alloy casting' bit that
makes me think this!
If it is the water pump pulley, then (a) it's a left-hand thread, and (b) you'll need to make or buy a special 'skinny' spanner to reach behind and
get a good grip.
If it isn't this pulley, just ignore my ramblings!
David
the pullys can be tight just gently tap it with a copper and hyde hammer,it will come off,swearing usually helps as well.
I still can't get that fu**ing crank shaft pulley off the bastard engine. there's no where to hit it with a hammer and I cant get a lever behind it
because it is surrounded by some sort of cast alloy wank poo bastard casting. Come on guys, someone must have been in a similar situation before, any
takers? 
scare it by tellin it your goin to burn the bastardin thing it'll come off in minutes.
(usually works for me)
I have exactly the same problem myself at the moment with my SOHC.
Heynes says something helpful like: "Remove the bolt" (this took me ages as couldn't stop pulley turning) "and then remove pulley. On injection
engines a puller will almost certainly be needed".
So presumably it is possible to use a puller and looking at it I can't see any reason why not. I can't see that the alloy casing would get in the way
of the puller.
Cheers,
James
Hi James, Thanks for the reply. Are there different versions of the haynes manual? If so I must have the limited edition information not supplied
version. All it says in mine is undo the crank shaft pulley bolt and remove the pulley by hand. If a puller is mentioned in your book then it must be
possible, but I must admit it looks tight.
I'll visit my local Ford dealer and see what they suggest.
I frequently have this problem with the Rover V8 front pulley. My foolproof solution is to bolt a 7 foot bar to the flywheel, heat the front bolt to
red hot and let it cool slowly, it normally shifts easily then. However, this method is fine on the RV8 because the pulley and bolt absorb most of the
heat and the alloy timing cover stays reasonably cool. If you have got some sort of alloy casing in the way be VERY careful as alloy doesn’t glow red
before it melts….
Is the engine in a car or the Locost? If so the other trick is to put a breaker bar and socket onto the nut, bracing it against the floor and give the
starter a quick flick. This method has never failed in the past, but I wouldn’t recommend trying it with the engine not properly mounted.
quote:
the pullys can be tight just gently tap it with a copper and hyde hammer,it will come off,swearing usually helps as well.
I had a look at my X-flow yesterday - I now know that I was talking gibberish previously (no change there 
)
I prised mine off with a couple of levers, but it wasn't very tight.
At least you have an opportunity to replace it with a machined steel pulley that won't burst at 8K rpm!
David
Right, it's possible to get it off with a puller- I know as that's what I did at 1am last night!
It took about 30 seconds! As oppsed to 30 minutes with a hammer!
Pity it took me breaking the current pulley to realise that!
quote:
David Jenkins wrote:
At least you have an opportunity to replace it with a machined steel pulley that won't burst at 8K rpm!
David
