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Author: Subject: Pinto Cam Follower Removal
omega0684

posted on 13/4/09 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
Pinto Cam Follower Removal

Evening chaps,

was in the garage today continuing on the my pinto rebuild, ive now finished most of the bottom end recon (see my pinto recon thread for pictures etc) so i started to work on the head. after reading through the haynes manual it says when removing the cam to remove the cam follower spings first (which ive done) and then it reads

6) Loosen the locknuts and back off the ball-pin adjuster nuts until the cam followers can be removed (see illustration). Note their locations for use when refitting. It will be necessary to rotate the camshaft during this operation.



i have tried to replicate the picture in the haynes manual with the photo above, does it mean loosen these nuts in the picture, the top nut under the spring clip is a 15mm and the lower nut is 19mm, i had a go at trying to undo them but they're so tight i nearly ended up ripping the muscles in my arms, shoulders and back so i stopped.

if these are indeed the nuts that need to be loosened to allow the removal of the cam follower, do any of you have any ideas on how to loosen the nuts. tricks of the trade etc.

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tomgregory2000

posted on 13/4/09 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
Get down the gym
Or put a rather long extension on?

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Dingz

posted on 13/4/09 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
The 19mm one is to lock it in place, undo that first
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richard

posted on 13/4/09 at 09:55 PM Reply With Quote
The 15mm is actually part of the post the screw thread is on, so hold it still and then as said above give the 19 mm a turn anti clock wise from above.
The width of the spanner jaws normally mean you cannot get much of a throw, so just hold the 15 mm still and repossition the 19 to wind the nut up so the post can then be lowered into the head to allow the follower to come off.

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jollygreengiant

posted on 13/4/09 at 10:16 PM Reply With Quote
Idiots guide to pinto finger removal. -

Remove finger retaining spring.
Pick up small - medium taping hammer.
At ball stud end of finger, give finger a firm but gentle persuasive tap (along length of finger from ball end to valve end, preferably with cam lobe pointing away from valve. But this last bit is not that important as if valve is partially open the tap needs to be a bit more persuasive) and finger will pop off ball stud.
Repeat process for all follower fingers.

Undo ball stud(s) lock nut(s) at leisure.





Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.

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flak monkey

posted on 14/4/09 at 06:45 AM Reply With Quote
You just need a longer spanner. Quite why people do them up so tight is beyond me, they dont need to be cranked up so tight in the first place.

Just put a 19mm spanner on the lock nut and give it a clout with a large hammer if they are being stubborn.

David





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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gregs

posted on 14/4/09 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey

Just put a 19mm spanner on the lock nut and give it a clout with a large hammer if they are being stubborn.

David


Like he said!

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