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Author: Subject: twin 40 high emmission problem
steve m

posted on 23/4/04 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
twin 40 high emmission problem

Hi
Does any one have any idea's on what is happening to my carb setup
It failed the MOT yesterday on Hydrocarbons of 10000 + when the limit (I believe) is only 1200, this problem appears to be only on no 1 cylinder as all of the other3 can be wound down to nothing, but no1 the mixture screw does nothing to the mixture

today I have totally rebuilt the carbs and blown thru them with 100 psi, every jet etc has been cleaned with thinners and blown thru, all of this was only done a month ago !!! so I dont expect any change to happen

for info I am running a 1700 xflow lightened and balanced with a 285 cam and stage 3 head
no 1 cyl (offending cylinder) is down 7 psi on the other 3 cyl
all of the valves are moving the same distance, so in theory the cam is ok,
I have new ignition coil, leads, rotor arn and plugs

what else can I do
hence my other post on the for sale a dcd 28/36 wanted !!!

no MoT means no Stoneleigh so I am well PISSED off !!!


regards

steve

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ady8077

posted on 23/4/04 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
Hi steve

What compression is the other 3? and did you add a tea spoon of oil to number one

Is the exhaust as hot on number one?

Adrian

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steve m

posted on 23/4/04 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
all comressions were done running (ie the other 3)
no oil was added as the pistons are dished and cut outs for the valves so I would need about 4 spoon fulls !!

No 1 seems cooler than the rest

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Deckman001

posted on 23/4/04 at 09:11 PM Reply With Quote
Steve, I have a carb off of a 1620 x/flow, it was on a grass track racer(runs rich), I'll need it for when i run mine(next year probably) your welcome to borrow it if it helps any

Jason






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ady8077

posted on 23/4/04 at 09:19 PM Reply With Quote
Hi steve

Have you tried swapping the carbs over?

No 1's comp might be too low to get good combustion?

Adrian

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britishtrident

posted on 23/4/04 at 09:59 PM Reply With Quote
I suspect either an ignition misfire or burnt/non seating vavle.

Check the valve clearances, check plug, plug lead and dizzie cap, if you have points ignition check the points gap on all 4 lobes of the dizzie cam --- if you have a Ford/Fomoco/Autolite/Motorcraft distributer with points always set the points to the wide end of the gap tolerance and recheck after the engines has run for 20 minutes (this type of points close up after initial running)

If none of the above it looks like a valve problem do a compression test properly ie warm up engine remove all plugs crank engine on starter with throttle held full open this is the only way that give meaningfull results.

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gregf27

posted on 23/4/04 at 11:00 PM Reply With Quote
had same problem with very high emissions,turned out to need the cylinder head bolts re-tightening!
worth a check!
regards,
Greg

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steve m

posted on 23/4/04 at 11:05 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for responses

Jason I may call you !!
do you know which type of downdraft it is ??


regards

steve

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Deckman001

posted on 24/4/04 at 06:59 AM Reply With Quote
No , not yet, but it is on the engine at the mo, so will have a look this morn and post later

Jason






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Deckman001

posted on 24/4/04 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
Hi steve you have u2u

Jason






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steve m

posted on 25/4/04 at 06:26 PM Reply With Quote
Update

i swapped the carbs and the problem was still no 1
a leak down check showed no 1 exhaust was leaking

The head is off again as no 1 compression was well below the others,

new valves in no 1 have dramatacly improved the static leak check. so hopefully by tomorrow nights I should be running again, (on all four !!!)

thanks for all the responses

regards

steve

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Dave Ashurst

posted on 25/4/04 at 08:12 PM Reply With Quote
Steve
Was the exhaust valve bent perhaps? (Look at it rolling along overhanging the edge of a flat table) Any evidence of valve contact on the piston?

How's the cooling system? Have you got a header tank? Has the engine recently overheated due to low coolant level?

The valves can jam open until a piston hits them back if the head gets too hot. Just a thought.

Edit: The point being; if it's got an overheating problem sort the cooling system out before it recurs!

regards
Dave

[Edited on 26/4/04 by Dave Ashurst]

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